Project V Process

What is This? What am I?  Does it matter?  Does it change?  Related to this is do you get yarn first or pick the pattern first?  If you go with yarn first how much? If you go with pattern first, how do you choose yarn?  Boy I have a lot of questions.   Luckily I have some answers and so do you.

First up what is a process stitcher?  This is a person who knits, crochets, embroiders,  quilts, other just to have the rhythmic action in their hands.  Some call it mindless, some autopilot.  The hands know the movements so well conscious thought isn't needed.  These are people who don't actually care about if the item gets finished or not or If it fits anybody, for that matter. 

By contrast the question of what is a project stitcher almost needs no answer.  This is a person who stitches to have the finished product. For the most part this person wants the thing to  be perfect, or as perfect as they can make it.  These people enjoy the process as long as it takes to get the finished thing.

Many stitchers fall between the two.

Desert Island Crochet and Knit

We've all done the what if..... game.  Either when we were bored or couldn't sleep or maybe as part of a getting to know you exercise. Here is my adaptation of this.

If you were on a tropical deserted island,  what would you want to crochet? Knit?  Fiber, weight, type of item, specific pattern or designer.

What if you were on an arctic deserted island, what would you want to crochet and Knit? Fiber? Weight? Type of item?  Specific pattern or designer?

Would you need a book for This?  Name the book.

On the tropical island,  I would want to have cotton, linen and hemp in lingering weight to worsted weight yarn.

Swatch! Swatch! Swatch! What can I do with them all??

Again these are ideas for uses for ways to use the swatches.  We've covered many ideas for just a few for each article.  Let's try 5 or 6 swatches for each thing this month.  By summer, we should be up to the many and miscellaneous.  Or you have run out of swatches.

1. Table runner:  Seam 5 or 6 large swatches (10-12 inches square) into one long piece.  Line or not with coordinating fabric as desired.
2. Place mats:  Seam 6 together in a 2 x 3 grid.  Each swatch should be 4 - 6 inches.  Line or not as desired.
3. Cowl:  Seam 5 or 6 together as for a runner, then complete the ring.  The size of each swatch should be 8 inches or so.  Use fibers that feel nice.  Line with fleece or not.  Wear with pride
4. Beanie:  Seam 4 swatches 5" each in a long piece then complete the ring.  Add a 5th 5" swatch at the 5th side (like the ceiling in a 4 walled room).  This should fit an adult.  You can crochet around the bottom edge to give it a finished edge.
5. Scarf:  Seam 5 or 6 together just like for the table runner.  Use fibers that feel nice.  Wear with pride.
6. Hand towel/Dish towel:  Sew 6 6 inch swatches in a 2 x 3 configuration.  Add trim as desired.  Use cotton for the absorbency.
7. Baby block toy:  Seam 6 into a block and stuff before the last seam is sewn.  I like to add a jingle bell (with the X squeezed tighter to prevent the ball clapper from being potentially swallowed) in the center of the stuffing.  Use pattern stitches that are not lace like or otherwise open.
8. Diaper cover:  This is more cute than functional for keeping the baby's surroundings dry.  Seam 5 in the shape of a T.  For this two pieces of 1 x 1 inch Velcro will be helpful by being sewn on the ends of the arms of the T.  The other side of the Velcro gets sewn to the edges of the foot of the T.  

Knit Popcorn, Bobbles, Nupps, and Puff stiches

What are the differences between popcorns, bobbles, nupps or puffs?  Is there a difference?  Yes, there is a difference.  Let's see what they look like. Let’s see how they are worked. There is one thing that you need to be sure of when working with them.  Be watchful where they are placed.  Many a garment has been ruined by misplaced bobbles and popcorns, not so much nupps and puffs.  These textural details can be used in columns to separate other stitch patterns, to replicate a charted design, in rows to separate other stitch patterns, and most dangerously as an allover detail.

If the above seems familiar, you are not wrong. It's nearly word for word from the Crochet Popcorn, Bobbles, and Clusters.  Why??  I'm not that lazy.  The information applies whether we are working with knitting or crocheting.

Let's start with Bobbles.....

This is the largest of all the textural bumps.  Start by knitting to the point in the pattern where a bobble is to be made or where you determine a bobble should be. In the stitch, you k, yo, k, yo, k.  Five to nine stitches are the norm for a bobble.  Turn the work, purl back, turn.  K5tog.  Continue with the rest of the row.  If you use seven stitches, add another k row and p row before knitting all the stitches together.  If you use nine stitches, add two more rows of stockinette stitch before k9tog.  This keeps it symmetrical.  If you don't like this look, you can make them wide and short or slender and tall.  Experiment to see what you like.  Nine is about the most you want to use.  Beyond that it becomes unwieldy.

Let's look at popcorn and nupp next.  One is a one row "bump".  The other is a two row application.  Do you know the difference?  The popcorn is one row.  Popcorn is four to seven stitches.  Kfbfb.  Sl the 2nd st of the four over the first (count from the left to the right).  Sl the 3rd st of the four over the first.  Sl the 4th of the four over the first.  Continue with the rest of the row.  

Now the nupp.  This is an Estonian technique.  It's pronounced like soup.  I learned about this from the Knitmore Girls Podcast Interview with Galina Khmeleva.  Nupps are always seven stitches as I understand.  Nupps are a two row operation.  Kfbfbfbf.  Continue with the pattern or as desired.  On the return row,  p7tog.  This will be challenging.  Don't work the knit stitches on the right side tightly.  And that is the nupp.  

The knit puff stitch is an anomaly.  There is no increasing or decreasing.  It is a series of short rows worked over 5 stitches.  It is a 10 stitch repeat plus 4.  It is worked over a  whole fabric or in a panel that meets this requirement.  Let's cast on 24 sts.  Knit a row, purl a row.  Repeat these two rows.  

***k 7, *turn p 5, turn, k5 *. Rep from * to * 3 or 4 more times.

k7,  rep from * to *.

k7,  rep from * to *, ending with a k 2.

P a row, k a row, p a row.***

Rep *** to *** for desired length.

What do you think of these?

The crochet bobble, popcorn, puffs and clusters plus the knit popcorn, bobbles, nupps and puff stitch will take our year of stitches from week 11 to week 15 which is the week after Easter on April 1.

See you April 15 with the next installment of A Year of Stitches

Review :: Learn Crochet Quickly

There are many different accessories, clothes, embellishments, stitches, tips and even a section about Tunisian crochet.  Each section has many patterns.  Each pattern links to a YouTube video.  These videos are done by many different people.  Most are good at what they are teaching.

As you tap a section to see what lovely morsels are there, you get an ad.  When you tap the pattern or tip or technique, you are whisked away to YouTube and an ad will play for at least 5 seconds before you can start the video.  You can usually stop the video after 5 seconds by pressing the skip ad button.

All in all I wouldn't download this app.  It's a directory rather than a how to.  I'd prefer to save the space on my device for patterns and such and search YouTube for the desired pattern, tip, tutorial, teacher.

Crochet Popcorn, Bobbles, Clusters

What are the differences between Popcorns, bobbles or puffs, and clusters?  Is there a difference?  Yes, there is a difference.  Let's see what they look like. Let’s see how they are worked. There is one thing that you need to be sure of when working with them.  Be watchful where they are placed.  Many a garment has been ruined by misplaced popcorns and bobbles.  These textural details can be used in columns to separate other stitch patterns, to replicate a charted design, in rows to separate other stitch patterns, and most dangerously as an allover detail.



And now the Popcorn…….



This is the largest of the three.  Popcorns are a series of five or seven double crochet, usually.  When you reach the stitch where a popcorn is desired or called for in the pattern or chart, work 5 double crochets in the next stitch.  Remove the hook from the loop, insert it in the top of the first double crochet, reach over and hook the loop you just dropped.  Pull it through.  Now continue to the next stitch.  It’s as simple as that.  If there will be Popcorns on each row, you may need to push alternating rows to the right side.  They tend to not all puff to the same side.  Now wasn’t that easy?  Try a crocheting a row that is *2 dc, Popcorn.  Repeat to the end, ending with 2 dc.  Now repeat this row 10 times.  Do your popcorns line up in columns or are they all over?  Do they all show up on the same side or do they need persuaded?  Most will need to be  persuaded.



And now for the bobble or puff stitch……….



This is the next largest stitch, at least in my opinion.  A bobble or puff stitch is the height of a double crochet.  Similar to the popcorn, it is comprised of four to seven stitches.  Let’s see how it works up.



In the stitch that a bobble or puff stitch is desired or indicated in the pattern/chart, work the following.  * Yarn over the hook, insert the hook in the stitch and draw up a loop to the height of your double crochet.  Repeat from the * 3 to 6 times more.  The pattern will tell you how many times.  Wrap the yarn around the hook one last time and pull through all the loops on the hook.  Now work a double crochet in the next 2 stitches.  Following the practice row above, try this puff stitch for ten rows.  How does this compare to the popcorn above?  How is it different? 



And finally clusters……



Clusters can fall into two categories.  They can be decreases.  They can also be a textural element like the puff stitch and the popcorn.  Let’s see how these are the same and how they differ.  For a decrease, your pattern will specify where to locate them, wrap the yarn around the hook, insert the hook in the indicated stitch and draw up a loop.  Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through two loops.  Stop.  Wrap the yarn around the hook and insert in the next stitch and draw up a loop.  Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through two loops.  There are three loops on the hook now.  Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through three.  See how you have lost a stitch?  Decreases are utilized on sleeves as you work from the shoulder down to the wrist, at the crown of a hat, or anywhere shaping is desired.  Let’s try 5 rows of this type of cluster following the practice row above.



But let’s get back to our textural element of the cluster.  Again your pattern will specify where to locate a cluster stitch.  You can also choose where to put it.  A cluster stitch for texture can have two to four stitches in it.  Now let’s try a cluster in the next stitch.  * Wrap the yarn around the hook, insert the hook in the stitch and draw up a loop.  Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through two of the loops on the hook.  Repeat one to three times in the same stitch.  Now wrap the yarn around the hook one final time and pull through all the loops on the hook.  See how you have one footprint?  One stitch at the top? But the bulk is in the center.  Do you see how this is the same?  You start the double crochet without finishing it.  Do you see how this is different?  You start each double crochet in one stitch in the textural version and in separate stitches for the decrease version.

Try 10 rows of this cluster following the practice row above.



Do you have the same number of stitches that you started with?  How many stitches do you have left in the decrease version?

A Year of Stitches week 11

Let's check out a pattern I like to call flock of parakeets.   It's colorful, quick, easy.  Color choice can run the gamut.  This particular stitch pattern is an excellent choice for variegated yarns, especially many variegated yarns.  It brings to mind a great multitude of colorful birds.

The main color is best to choose second.  Contrast colors can be all the bits and pieces left from other projects, solids, variegated, ombres, tonals, you name it.  Now what color family, if there is a predominant family, do you see.  Choose your main color at This point.  You can go across the color wheel to choose a complementary color.  You can choose an analogous color by going to the neighboring color on the color wheel.  

Are your contrast colors light, medium, or dark?  If they are primarily dark, I'd advise a tint of that main color choice.  If they are mostly light, choose a darker shade.  If the contrasting colors are medium or allover the place, pick whatever main color and hue strikes your fancy.

For the knit version we will again use the basic dishcloth pattern.  

In MC, Cast on 3

R1:  k1, kfbf, k1

R2:  k

R3:  k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.

Rep R2 and R3 until you have the needed number of stitches.  For this exercise, 15 will do.  Rep R2.  Break yarn.  Choose a CC and join with a slip knot.

R4:  k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Rep R2.

Rep R4 and R2 down to 3 sts.  This last decrease row will be k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1.  Change CC every second row.

Work at least 4 of these, enough to make a square, so 4 or 9 will work.  Line up the squares with the solid triangles all facing the same direction.  You determine the right side.  Sometimes I like the side with the solid stripes.  Sometimes I like the side with the "zipper" look.

For the crochet version, we will do something completely different from anything before.

In MC, ch 4.

R1:  2dc in first ch. Turn.

R2:  ch 3, 2 dc in first st, dc to the last st, in the top of the ch 3, 3 dc.

Rep R2 until you have 15 sts.  Fasten off.  Join a CC

R3:  Ch 2, 2dcdec over the next 2 sts, dc to last 3 sts, 3 dcdec.  Turn.

Rep R3 down to 1 st.  Change CC every row.  

You will need to work at least 4 of these also.  Line up the squares with the solid triangles all facing the same way.  The crochet version won't have a right or wrong side.  They look pretty much the same.

A Year of Stitches week 10

Week 9 we looked at the log cabin stitch pattern for both knit and crochet.   It was very easy using the most basic stitch in knit and crochet.

Week 10 let's expand on the crossover between quilting and crocheting.  Our stitch pattern is shoo fly.  Shoo fly is a 9 patch quilt pattern featuring 4 solid squares in the background color, 1 solid square in contrast color and 4 half square triangle squares in mc and cc.  For crochet,  let's utilize the basic solid granny square.

Ch 5 and join in a ring with a sl st.

R1: ch3, 2dc in ring,  * ch2, 3dc in ring. Repeat from * 2 more times, end ch 2 and join with a sl st in top of ch 3.

R2: ch3, * dc in each dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2 sp.  Repeat from * to the end. Join with sl st in top of ch 3.

R3 and R4: rep R 2. Fasten off after R4. 

Make 3 more in mc and 1 in cc.

The half square triangle square directions are next.

Ch 5 and join in a ring with a sl st.

R1: with mc, ch3, 2dc in ring,  * ch2, 3dc in ring. Repeat from * once more,  then join cc and repeat 2 more times, end ch 2 and join with a sl st in top of ch 3.

R2: with mc, ch3, * dc in each dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2 sp.  Repeat from * once more in mc, join cc and repeat to the end. Join with sl st in top of ch 3.

R3 and R4: rep R 2. Fasten off after R4. 

For the knit version,  we will utilize a variant of the dishcloth pattern.

Cast on 3 sts with mc.

R1: k1, kfbf, k1
R2: k
R3:  k1, kfb, k to last 2sts,  ending ķfb, k1

Rep R2 and R3 until there are 15sts.  Rep R2 then go to R4.

R4:  k1, k2tog,  k to last 3sts,  ending k2tog,  k1

Rep R2 and R4 down to 3sts.  Bind off.

For the half square triangle square,  k the pattern to the last R2 at 15 sts.  Join cc and repeat R4 and R2 down to 3sts.  Bind off.

Placement of the squares to form the pattern.

R1  half square triangle square with cc pointing to center, solid mc square,  half square triangle square with cc pointing to center.

R2. Solid mc square,  cc solid square,  mc solid square

R3. half square triangle square with cc pointing to center, solid mc square,  half square triangle square with cc pointing to center.

Seam carefully using a mattress stitch.  Block 1 to 2 then 2 to 3 for each row. Now seam rows together.

A year in stitches Week 9

Week 9 

Something easy yet not so much.  Log cabin stitch pattern  It works well for both knit and crochet.  This can utilize all those leftover bits and bobs of yarn and partial balls.  All that is really necessary is that they be of similar weight and you use a hook or pair of needles that is compatible with that weight of yarn.  I'll use worsted weight and H hook or 8US needles

Here's the how to for knit stitch week 9

Cast on 10 sts.

In color A, Knit in garter stitch 10 ridges (20 rows).

In color B, knit 10 more ridges (20 rows).  Bind off loosely.  Rotate the work so the bound off edge is on your right.

In color C,  Pick up and knit along the edge 20 sts.  Knit 10 ridges (20 rows).  Bind off loosely.  Rotate the work so this bound off edge is on your right.

In color D,  pick up and knit along the edge 20 sts.  Knit 10 ridges (20 rows).  Bind off loosely.  Rotate the work so this bound off edge is on your right.

In color E, pick up and knit along the edge 30 sts.  Knit 10 ridges (20 rows).  Bind off loosely.  Rotate the work so this bound off edge is on your right.

In color F, pick up and knit along the edge 30 sts.  Knit 10 ridges (20 rows).  Bind off loosely.  Rotate the work so this bound off edge is on your right.

Continue in this manner until the desired size is reached. 

Do you see what you are doing each time you add a stripe?  You are adding 10 sts to the width

For added interest, you can plan out your colors.  Keep all the darks on opposite sides and lights in between.  Keep all the darks on 2 touching sides and the lights on the opposite sides.  Like the quilt block this is named for, there are almost an infinite number of ways to put them together if you choose to make the blocks only so big.  Or you can make an entire afghan for an adult.  Just be aware the stripes will start to seem much thinner on the edges.  They aren’t.  It’s only an optical illusion.

 Here's the how to for crochet week 9.

In color A, Ch 11.  Sc in 2^nd ch from the hook and each ch to the end. Ch 1, turn and sc in each across.  Repeat this row 8 times more. 10 total rows.  Fasten off.

In color B, join the color to the square and ch 1.  Sc in each st across.  Work 9 more rows.  Fasten off.  Rotate the work so this edge is on the right.

In color C, join to the work on the right top corner.  Sc in the end of each row across.  (20 sts).  Work 9 more rows.  Fasten off.  Rotate the work so this edge is on the right.

In color D, join to the work on the right top corner.  Sc in the end of each row and each stitch as you go across.  (20 sts)  Work 9 more rows.  Fasten off.  Rotate the work so this edge is on the right.

In color E, join to the work on the top right corner.  Sc in the end of each row and each st as you go across. (30 sts)  Work 9 more rows.  Fasten off.  Rotate the work so this edge is on the right.

In color F, join to the work on the top right corner.  Sc in the end of each row and each st as you go across.  (30 sts)  Work 9 more rows.  Fasten off.  Rotate the work so this edge is on the right.

Continue in this manner until the desired size is reached. 

Do you see what you are doing each time you add 2 stripes?  You are adding 10 sts to the width. 

For added interest, you can plan out your colors.  Keep all the darks on opposite sides and lights in between.  Keep all the darks on 2 touching sides and the lights on the opposite sides.  Like the quilt block this is named for, there are almost an infinite number of ways to put them together if you choose to make the blocks only so big.  Or you can make an entire afghan for an adult.  Just be aware the stripes will start to seem much thinner on the edges.  They aren’t.  It’s only an optical illusion.