Monday, June 26, 2017
Friday, June 9, 2017
A very odd title for a post on a blog about knitting and crocheting. I freely admit that. But I recently read an article about what motivates people. Specifically the motivation behind Gilligan's Island, what caused it to be, Sherwood Schwartz in college was intrigued by the politics of how people get along with each other and wondered what might happen in a confined space or on a desserted island. This sparked a thought of naked and afraid and what I could bring to the table in a situation something along those lines. Then the thoughts turned to.....if I was on a dessered island what would I want with me?
I suppose it would be futile to want a boat to get off said island. So if I could have only a foot locker full of yarns and tools, what might it be? I know right now that list would change over time.
I think if the island is tropical, I would appreciate linen, cotton, hemp in dk weight and finer.
I would want a couple of Barbara G. Walker's stitch dictionaries. I think Ann Budd's book of patterns for any size yarn would be great. I would want a complete set of circular needles and a complete set of crochet hooks. I would have to have 2 crochet stitch dictionaries of comparable quality. I would also want a comparable book of crochet patterns like Ann Budd's for knitting. I don't know if these exist. But these are what I want. With basic pattern templates and stitch dictionaries, you can usually create anything.
In another time I might do this with a different climate. I know I can come up with a boatload of ideas
Friday, June 2, 2017
But besides the fact that we were both right (angle of perception has a great deal to do with what you see and think you see), it gave me pause to consider. Am I shortchanging students in knowledge? Better still, does anyone care? I figure yes we do care. Possibly this discussion is suitable for intermediate students though,
Sock yarn is yarn that is used to knit or crochet socks. That is the base answer and while true is also untrue. Sock yarn should be slightly stretchy. It has very definite crimp in the fiber allowing for a lot of twist in the spin, thus allowing a lot of twist in the plying. Sock yarn, if they are to be worn in shoes, is almost always fingering weight or a light fingering weight. Much more and shoes won't fit over the foot and sock. But is the goal for boot socks? Then heavier weight yarn can be used. Is the goal for bed socks or house socks? Still heavier yarn can be used.
Fingering weight yarn on the other hand is any yarn that has 19 - 22 wraps per inch (how many times the yarn wraps around a ruler or pencil or any even object in an inch) and knits up at a gauge of 7 - 8 stitches per inch. It is fairly fine but not thread like. The fiber may or may not have a lot of crimp. The yarn may or may not be highly twisted. The plying will match the twist.
On the surface, they seem to be one in the same. But consider this. All the sweaters, shawls, hats, scarves, you name it don't have near the friction that a sock does inside a shoe, or even just being worn. We don't walk on sweaters or shawls or hats. This means that all that extra twist is more surface area for the yarn to wear evenly. You won't get a wear hole in the sock nearly as fast as a yarn that doesn't have all that twist. This is an important thing to consider.
The shawl that is done in fingering weight yarn will usually have a lot of drape. Fiber and gauge have a lot to do with this, but so does the amount of twist in the fiber as well as the amount of twist in the plying. The shawl done in sock yarn but the same gauge and fiber won't drape as much.
So what is your preference? Did you know there was a difference??
Thursday, May 11, 2017
May 2017 marks the 10th anniversary of Ravelry.
I know it's hard to believe. It's grown steadily from tens of members in the beginning to millions today.
Their blog post about their birthday can be found here.
Do you utilize ravelry? What are your favorite parts?
I utilize it, but definitely not to its fullest. I hunt for patterns. I might see how yarns are used by others. I check other people's projects.
I don't use the project page to my benefit or its fullest. I have not even used the stash section. I try to keep my library up to date and fail.
Saturday, May 6, 2017
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2340 mockingbird rd
950 Hamilton St.
1001 w. Broad street
52 York Street
717-818-9691 or 717-225-0780
3519 Old Philadelphia Pike,
Kitchen Kettle Village
Intercourse, PA 17534
829 state st.
39 e. Main street
2 e. 28tg division hwy
240 s. Main street
Sunday, April 23, 2017
If someone were to ask you what is the difference between crossed and twisted stitches in knitting, would you be able to help? I ask because it came to me as I worked on a guild project called wingspan by maylin Tri'Coterie Designs. This project is from several years ago and older than that from its designing. It's a really nice shawl and I look forward to finishing it sometime soon. Because then, I can wear it.
But back to the question at hand. Let's explore this.
Cables are crossed. Anyone who has seen Aran sweaters, whether machine knit or hand knit, knows about cables. The background is one stitch pattern. There are ropes snaking around the surface that lay over each other at regular intervals. The point where they lay over each other is the cross. Cables are at least 2 stitches over at least 2 stitches. They usually use a cable needle. Some knitters are adept at crossing cables without a cable needle.
Now for the slightly harder part. What if there's only one stitch over one stitch? Is that a cable? No. But what is it? Those are called twisted stitches. They don't use a cable needle. You would drop it if you tried to use one. Twisted stitches are crossed when doing the actual knitting rather than before.
So that leaves crossed stitches. What are those? If you think of a knit stitch as a pair of pants, the top of the stitch that goes on the top of the needle is the part of the pants that goes around hips and waist. Each leg is a leg of the stitch. Cross the pant legs at the ankle and that is what a crossed knit stitch looks like. Crossed stitches are formed by a combination of where in the stitch the needle is put and the direction of the wrapping of the yarn around the needle.
But there are also knit stitch patterns called cross stitch. They are very lovely to see and fun to knit. Below is a favorite cross stitch of mine. It's a variety slip stitch knitting.
I'm late but happy earth day!
Locally, earth day is about cleaning up the streams and abandoned areas and volunteering at non profit organizations and charities. As most of us know, it all started back in the early 70s when Americans were guzzling petroleum products and just starting to be concerned with the state of our land and waterways. We've come far but there's still a lot we can do.
"How can we tie knitting and crocheting with earth day" you ask. Let's start with the easy stuff of the mantra reduce, re-use, recyle, make do or do without.
1. Use reusable shopping bags. Then we don't have to have so many of those cheap grocery bags. These are being made to disintegrate in the landfills. If they don't get used quick enough from date of manufacturing they start falling apart in the boxes and that spells trouble for shoppers. Have you had a bag split in the parking lot dropping something breakable? This is annoying and expensive. You can purchase reusable shopping bags or you can make them.
Some would have you use those plastic bags to make something more permanent and sturdier. I encourage you not to do this. Kitchen cotton such as sugar and creme peaches and cream are fabulous. Acrylic yarns can do a great job, possibly better than the cottons.
However, in the reduce, re-use and recycle vein, what about tarn? Have you heard about this? Recycle your old t-shirts. I have a bunch that have seen better days. Over the years, tiny holes open in the fabric. These shirts then make it to my ok for cleaning or other dirty activity wardrobe. But eventually even that part of the closet becomes overflowing and something must be done. So I make tarn.
Here is a quick run-through of my process.
1. Lay shirt flat on a solid surface. Smooth wrinkles.
2. With a scissor or rotary cutter (think pizza wheel for fabric) cut across shirt from under arm seam to under arm seam. Remove the neck/sleeve portion.
3. Using a yardstick, cut across the body in even and straight strips, ending 2 inches from the fold.
4. Pick up the fabric. Using scissors, cut, angling up from one cut to the very next one. Taper ends if desired. This will give you a continuous strip.
5. Stretch to cause curling as you wrap into a ball or wrap in a ball and stretch as you knit or crochet with it.
Patterns abound for shopping bag and market bags. Choose from flat to those with a more boxlike shape to string bags.
Oh and don't toss those bits not used. They are great for dirty jobs instead of buying paper towels.
2. I've talked before about frogging sweaters to get a luxury fiber that is either out of my budget or just not available to me. But, have you changed shape? Kids grown? Usually our wardrobes are centered around a few colors that mix and match. If you've shrunk, first congratulations on your weight loss. Second consider donating the clothes outgrown so others can utilize. Third, frog appropriate garments that work well together and rework into a garment that will fit your new body.
3. Make due with what you have. This is a harder one. Are some of your clothes and soft home furnishings looking i bit faded? Maybe you can't stand the dated colors but can't afford new. Or perhaps you can't see spending $$ when there's nothing wrong with the things except for the color. Here's where dye can be a huge help.
Any natural fibers can be dyed. Synthetic fibers are a mixed bag. Some will take dye, some won't. Rit dyes found in most grocery stores and craft stores are readily available. They work well with natural fibers. They even say that synthetic fibers will work with their dye. The few times I tried synthetics, i didn't have success. Light colors can go darker. Dark colors can go darker. Plant fibers can be bleached out with rit color remover. Animal fibers will be damaged by the color remover process. Synthetics have the color in the structure of the thread and is part of the processing. These can't have the color removed.
Friday, April 14, 2017
Monday, April 10, 2017
Saturday, April 1, 2017
I'm going to offer some ideas about gauge and the measurement of. Back before the turn of the last century gauge was not talked about nor was it really measured. Children learned to knit and crochet at mom or grandma's knee. These experienced Knitters and Crocheters could see at a glance if the kids were getting the proper number of stitches and take corrective steps. Nowadays most don't have that kind of almost instant access.
In today's world, we might have a friend or family member who has taught us the basics or maybe a little more. But more and more, we are learning from teachers at yarn shops and possibly big box craft stores, teachers at conventions like Stitches, or from classes purchased online or for free on YouTube. Podcasts can offer help for questions, if you know what the problem is. The impersonalness of learning has brought up all kinds of problems that weren't a big deal in times gone by. Gauge is one such thing.
The impetus for today's post about gauge is an episode on the verypink podcast. You can check out their website at verypink.com There was a bunch of gauge questions and one stood out. The question was asked about why patterns are telling us to measure gauge mid project.
Let's go over the quick list of steps to measuring gauge.
1. Cast on and knit the swatch. Note the brand, color and weight of yarn and size of needle or hook.
2. Measure in the center of the swatch the number of stitches and then of rows per 4 inches. Note these on the same place as yarn and tool info.
3. Wash and block the swatch as you will be treating the finished product. Follow the washing instructions on the yarn label.
4. Measure the same locations again for gauge. This is the magic set of numbers for determining the size to make for the intended recipient. Note these and highlight.
5. Repeat as needed to get the stitch and row gauge in the pattern after washing and blocking. Use new yarn for each swatch. Knitting, washing/blocking and ripping out can stretch the yarn after a few times.
Ok back to the question of mid project gauge measuring. In a previous post about gauge, I discussed how emotions can influence gauge, in addition to the way you hold the tool and yarn. It's been shown time and again most people tighten up muscles when stressed. Tight muscles usually means that your hands are going to hold tightly to the tools and yarn.
Now, most of us will need to put down our project from time to time. A quick drop to answer the door or grab a drink up to many days, months, years of not working on something because life can intervene in a wide variety of ways. Over time your personal gauge can change due to age or life circumstances.
There is not much chance of gauge changing while you get a drink or eat something (wash your hands to keep things clean). But gauge can change especially for new knitters and crocheters as you gain experience over a short time period. For those of us who are more experienced, it takes more time or emotional upheaval to change our gauge.
There is a special class of people who use knitting or crocheting as a stress! reliever or as a way to keep occupied during crazy times such as waiting for the birth of a child or a teen to come home who's late. Try measuring gauge after that type of event. You'll find a difference.
Now you can see why mid project gauge measuring could need to be done.
Look back at the list of steps to measuring gauge. Remember when I said to measure gauge before washing? This is the gauge the you need to match so when washing and blocking are done after finishing or wearing you get the proper gauge for the size desired.
Make sense? I hope so. Questions can be asked in the comments section below.
Tuesday, March 21, 2017
Tuesday, March 14, 2017
My Local Yarn Shop. Those words should invoke a warm wooly feeling with sure knowledge that help can be a few short miles away. Sadly not everyone can have such a rich resource near them. Even more sad, shops are closing due to online sales and poor economy. Online sales can give us access to a plethora of choices in fiber and color.
I am lucky enough to have wonderful shops to the North, South, East and West of my home within two hours or less. These, coupled with the big box stores, give me access to many fibers and colors, as well as a wide variety of price points.
Allow me to give a glimpse into the shops. Most have a selection of acrylic yarns in weights, colors and prices. There are wools again in a selection of weight, colors and prices. There are blends, wool/acrylic, cotton/acrylic, wool/cotton, cotton/linen, wool/alpaca, you name it, I can point you to a shop where it can be found.
Classes, books, magazines are available in a variety of levels of experience. The teachers are knowledgeable and sometimes nationally recognized. Class needs are just an arm's length away if something was forgotten. Help can always be found for small questions or problems, although the shop owners usually prefer that the project components were purchased at the shop.
Some of the big box craft stores also have teachers from the local area. Many of these people are wonderful help with problems, questions and choices about projects. Check your big box craft store and lys. You will be amazed at the variety found.
Monday, February 27, 2017
Thursday, February 23, 2017
Monday, February 13, 2017
Circles are the last shape I will be tackling. 5+ sides are better suited to motifs rather than whole shawls. My mind has come up with 3 ways to create a circle. One is possible on paper but not in practical knitting or crocheting and so won't be mentioned except here. Start with 3 - 5 sts and in rows keep increasing out so you create rounded edges on the "sides". Work 3 - 5 rows straight then follow the amount of increases back down to the same beginning 3 - 5 sts. In practice this doesn't work. It cups horrendously because of the rapid rate of increases/decreases. Cupping will be worse depending on the stitch used.
Method 1 Start with either a magic circle and 8 or 12 sts worked into the circle in crochet or 2 dpns and 12 sts evenly distributed. When knitting, follow Pythagorus' rule and every time you double the number of rounds, double the number of sts on the needles. An example of this is rd 1, k, rd 2 kfb around, rd 3 k, rd 4, kfb around, rd 5-7 k, rd 8, kfb, rd 16 kfb, rd 32 kfb. Keep this increasing pattern until you have the diameter you wish. Any increase can be used. YO, k1 can be used instead to add to the lace effect or to give a very definite line of demarcation. Any stitch can be worked in the solid bands between the increase rds with the exception of things that cause waves such as feather and fan pattern stitch. These don't fare well without extensive planning due to the changing stitch count every increase round.
When working with crochet, double the number of sts on rd 2, work 1 single stitch and a pair of sts all the way around on rd 3, work 2 singles and a pair all the way around on rd 4, 3 singles and a pair on rd 5 and continue in this fashion until you are large enough. Pythagorus doesn't work as well for crochet due to the less flexible nature of the fabric created. This is in my experience.
This is fabulous for adding a border and edging due to all live stitches on the edge. You will also have a really ;nice "bag" to hold your ball of yarn and needles once you get onto a large circular needle.
Method 2 Starts at the outside edge and works into the center. Follow the same pattern for increasing here except decreases will be substituted. Again be mindful of the stitch patterns you choose. The first rds will be extremely long but once you start the decreasing, they happen quicker and quicker as you go. This can work great as long as your edge is not too tight. You also don't have to worry about having an ever increasing number of live stitches to drop.
Method 3 uses motifs. Pick one major motif and a secondary smaller motif for filling in during the joining up phase. These can be very elegant but not necessarily easy to wear.
There are no pictures this time. We all know what a circle looks like and with this few methods, I didn't deem it necessary.
Go forth and knit or crochet. Have you chosen your shape? How about a stitch pattern? Many of the stitches I'm sharing here during the #yearofcrochetstitches and #yearofknitstitches can be used successfully for almost any shawl shape.
Saturday, February 11, 2017
Cat's Paw Lace and Crowns Lace
Cat's Paw Lace
Multiple of 7 sts
Row 2: K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, S1, K1, PSSO, K1, repeat across to end of row.
Row 3: Purl to end of row.
Row 4: K2tog, YO, K3, YO, S1, K1, PSSO, repeat across to the end of row
Row 5: Purl to the end of row.
Row 6: K2, YO, S1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K2 repeat across to the end of row.
With this stitch pattern we can feel like a princess.
Openwork Leaf Pattern and Leaf Stitch
Openwork Leaf Pattern
This is a close relative of the openwork diamonds from 2 days ago. Both are fabulous. This one reminds me of the leaves of the greenery sometimes included with roses one sometimes gets for Valentine's day, birthdays or Mother's day.
Multiple of 8 + 1
R1: (WS) and all other wrong side rows - P
R2: k1, * yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k1. Rep from *
R4: k1, * k1, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k2. Rep from *
R6: k1, * k2, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k3. Rep from *
R8: k2tog, * k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * ending last rep ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
R10: k2tog, * k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * ending last rep ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso
R12: k2tog, * yo k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * ending last rep ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Leaf (make 4 worsted weight or 8 sport or fingering weight)
Rd1: Working around the chain, sc in 2nd and 3rd ch, 2 hdc in next 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 3 dc in same ch as 3 dc, 2 hdc in next 2 ch sc in last 2 ch. Join with sl st.
Rd2: ch 4, dc, hdc, sc in first sc, 2 hdc, dc, tr in next sc, dc, 3 hdc, dc in first hdc, hdc, dc, tr, in hdc, dtr, tr, dc, hdc in dc, hdc, sc in dc, ch 4, sl st in each ch, work back to the tip following the reverse of the first side.
Join the tips of the leaves to form a "snowflake" shape.
Block: Ch 23
R1: Dc in 4th ch and each remaining ch. Ch 3, turn.
R2: Dc in 2nd st and each remaining st, dc in top of turning chain.
Rep R2 until you have a square. Make 1 or as many as needed to finish your project. Tack the leaves to the block at the outward and inward points plus the tip of the stem.
Friday, February 10, 2017
English Mesh and V stitch
Popular, Pretty, what more could we ask for?
Multiple of 6 plus 1
R1: (wrong side) and all other wrong side rows - P
R2: k1, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *
R4: k1, * yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1; rep from *
R6: k1, * k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *
R8: k2, * (k1, yo) 2x, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * to last 5 sts, end (k1, yo) 2x, k1, ssk
Rep R1 - 8 until you have a square or you have reached the desired length
V is for Valentine's Day, V is for Victory. Sometimes these are viewed as the same thing.
Multiple of 3 plus 4
Ch the desired number of sts
R1: in 5th ch from hook, dc, (ch4 counts as dc and ch 1), * sk 2 ch, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch. Rep from *
R2: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in same ch 1 sp, * in next ch1 sp, (dc, ch1, dc). Rep from *
Rep R2 until you have a square or desired length
These sound like they should be a breakfast cereal
Multiple of 4 plus 2
Popcorn: 4 sc in st, drop loop from hook, insert hook in first sc of 4sc, hook dropped loop and pull through. ch 1, pc made. Popcorns can be sc thru to tr. Number of sts can be 4 or as many as desired.
R1: sc in 2nd ch and in each remaining ch, ch 1, turn
R2: (RS) - sc in sc; * ch1, sk next sc, pc in next sc, sk next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * across, ch 1, turn.
R3: sc in first sc and in next ch 1 sp; *ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp; rep from * across, ch 1, turn
R4: sc in first sc and in next ch 1 sp, * pc in next ch 1sp, sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1; rep from * to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
R5: sc in first sc and in next ch 1 sp; * ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp; rep from * to last sc, sc in last sc; ch 1 turn.
R6: sc in first sc, ch 1, pc in ch 1 sp; * sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, pc in next ch 1 sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, sc next sc, sc in last sc; ch 1, turn.
Rep R3 - 6 for the pattern until you have a square or you have reached the desired length.
Openwork Diamonds and Diamonds Block
This is a very old lace and there are many variations. This version is common.
Multiple of 8 + 1
R1: (WS) and all other wrong side rows - P
R2: k1, * k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2; rep from *
R4: k1, * k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *
R6: k2tog, * yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
R8: k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *
R10: k1, * k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2; rep from *
R12: k1, * k2, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k3; rep from *
Rep R1-12 until you have a square or desired length
Multiple of 10 + 7
shell: (dc, ch5, dc) in specified st
R1: dc in 4th ch from hook and next 3 ch, * sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch, dc in next 5 ch; rep from * across; ch 3 (counts as dc of following row), turn.
R2: dc in next 4 dc, * ch 2, sc in 3rd ch of shell, ch 2, dc in next 5 dc; rep from * across, ch 3, turn.
R3: sk next dc; * shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp; sk next 2 dc; rep from * across to last 5 dc, sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, sk next dc, dc in turning ch; ch 4;(c0unts as dc ch 1) turn.
R4: * sc in 3rd ch of shell, ch 2, dc in next 5 dc, ch 2; rep from * to last shell, sc in 3rd ch of shell, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch; ch 3, turn.
R5: dc in next ch 1 sp and in next sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp; * sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, rep from * to last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, dc in 4th and in 3rd ch of turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Rep R2 - 5 for pattern until you have a square or you reach desired length.
Antique Diamond Pattern and Diamonds in a Row
Antique Diamond Pattern
This is one of the oldest openwork diamond patterns. It uses yos and decrease on both sides of the fabric in the Spanish fashion.
Multiple of 10 plus 1.
R1: (RS) - k1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * across.
R2: p1, *p1, yo, p2tog, k3, p2tog-b, yo, p2; rep from *
R3: k1, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from *
R4: k1, * k2, p1, yo, p3tog, yo, p1, k3; rep from *
R5: k1, * k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3; rep from *
R6: k1, * k1, p2tog-b, yo, p3, yo, p2tog, k2; rep from *
R7: k1, * k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *
R8: p2tog, * yo, p1, k5, p1, yo, p3tog; rep from *, ending last rep p2tog instead of p3tog.
Rep R1 - R8 until you have a square or desired length.
Diamonds in a Row
Diamonds wrapped all around a ring? If this pattern is worked wide enough, then sewn together, it could make a very nice cowl.
Multiple of 6 + 1
Cluster: (cl) - keeping the last loop on each dc on hook, dc in each of next 3 dc; yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook. cl made. This is the standard cl when specific directions are not given.
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch; ch 4, (counts as dc and ch 1 of following row), turn.
R2: sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, * ch 1, sk next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st; rep from * to last 3 sts, ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc in last st; ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2 sp) turn.
R3: * cl over next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * across. end last rep with cl over next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in 3 ch of turning ch; ch 1, turn.
R4: sc in first dc, * 2 sc in ch 2 sp, sc in cl, 2 sc in ch 2 sp; sc in next dc; rep from * across, end last rep with sc in last cl, 3 sc in ch 5 sp, ch 3, turn.
R5: dc in base of ch, ch 1, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk 2 sc, dc in next sc; rep from * across, end last rep with ch 1, sk 2 sc, 2 dc in last sc, ch 3 (counts as first dc of following row), turn
R6: dc in dc; ch 2, dc in next dc, * ch 2, cl over next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from * across, end last rep with ch 2; holding back last loop of each dc, dc in last dc and in 3rd ch of turning ch (end cl made); yo and draw through 3 loops, ch 1, turn
R7: sc in end cl; * 2 sc in each ch 2 sp, sc in each dc and sc in each cl; rep from * across, end last rep with sc in last sc (sk turning ch); ch 4, turn.
Rep R2 - 7 for the pattern until you have a square or the desired length.
Little Lace Chain and Diamonds
Little Lace Chain
This is a panel of 8 sts. This can be a fabric if repeated. It will be a linear fabric.
R1 and all wrong side rows: (WS) - P. **NOTE** On R5, work k1p1 in double yo of prev row.
R2: k1, k2tog, yo, twist next 2 sts (k2tog, but do not slip off, insert right needle tip between the two and k the first st. sl both sts from needle together), yo, ssk, k1
R4: k2tog, yo, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, yo, ssk
R6: k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2.
Rep R1 - R6 until you have a square or you have desired length
With Valentines day coming up, it seems that diamonds, love and weddings are on my mind.
Multiple of 5 + 1
Petal: (dc, ch3, sl st, ch 3, dc) all in one ch or ch sp
R1: (RS) - dc in 4th ch from hook; * ch 1, sk 4 ch, work petal in next ch; rep from * to last 2 ch, sk next ch, dc in last ch; ch 3, turn.
R2: dc infirst dc; * ch 1, work petal in ch 1 sp between next 2 petals; rep from * across, end last rep with petal in last ch 1 sp, sk next dc, dc in top of turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Rep R 2 for pattern. Rep until there is a square or desired length is reached.
Final Row: sc in first dc; * ch 4, sc in ch 1 sp between petals; rep from * across, end last rep with ch 2, sk next dc, sc in top of turning ch.
Sunday, February 5, 2017
Lace Chain and Delightful Diamonds
Panel of 10 sts.
R1: (WS and all other wrong side rows) - P. ***NOTE: On row 7, work k1p1 in double yo of prev row.***
R2: k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog but do not slip from needle, insert RH needle between the sts just knitted tog and k 1st st again; then sl both from needle together; yo, ssk, k2.
R4: k1, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k1
R6: k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k1, yo, ssk
R8: k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2
R10: k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3
Rep R 1-10 until you have a square or desired length. This panel can be multiplied to create an allover fabric but it will be linear in nature.
Diamonds are a girl's best friend.
Multiple of 16 + 10
R1: RS - sc in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 5, sk 3 ch, sc in next ch, rep from * across, ch 5 turn.
R2: sc in first ch 5 sp, * ch 1, Vst in next sc, ch 1; (sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5) 3x, sc in next ch 5 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in last ch 5 sp, ch 5, dc in last sc, ch 1 turn
R4: *sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst, ch 1, Vst in next sc, ch 1, sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst, (ch 5, sc in next ch 5 sp) 2x, ch 5, rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst, ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2 turn.
R5:sc in first dc, * ch 5, sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst **, (ch 5, sc in next ch 5 sp) 3x, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 5, sc in turning ch loop, ch 5, turn.
R6: *sc in next ch 5 loop, ch 5, rep from * across, ending ast rep with sc in last ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 5 turn.
R7: rep R6, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in next ch 5 loop, ch 5 turn.
Rep R 2 - 7 until you have a square or desired length.
Vst is dc, ch2 dc in same st. This is different from a standard Vst.
Ribbon Stitch Cable and Lacy Mesh
Ribbon Stitch Cable
This is the "miscabled" cable. It really is a stitch.
Panel of 10 sts
R1: WS and all other wrong side rows - k2, p6, k2
R2: p2, sl 3 to cable needle and hold in back, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2
R4 & 6: p2, k6, p2
R8: p2, sl 3 to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2
R10 & 12: p2, k6, p2
Rep R 1-12 until you have a square or reach desired size.
Multiple of 4 plus 2.
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each rem ch, ch 1. turn.
R2: (RS) - sc in first sc, *ch2, sk 1 sc, cl in next sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * across, ch 5 (counts as tr and ch 1 sp), turn.
R3: sc in top of first cl, *ch 5, sc in top of next cl, rep from * across, ending last rep with ch 1, tr in last sc, ch 1, turn.
R4: sc in tr, *ch 2, cl in next sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in 3rd ch of turning ch, ch 5, turn.
Rep R3 & R4 for pattern.
CL = * yo, insert hook, and draw up a loop to height of a dc, yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * once. yo and draw through 3 loops.
Tuesday, January 31, 2017
Today's stitches will be
Mitered Knit and Mitered Crochet
This is also know as domino knitting and modular knitting.
Odd number of stitches.
Cast on twice the number of stitches needed plus 1. Mark the center st.
R1: K to one stitch before the center, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k to the end.
Rep R1 and R2 until there is 1 st.
Ch twice as many sts as needed plus 2. Mark center sc
R1: sc in 2nd and rest of the ch.
R2: Sc to 1 st in front of marked st, sc3otg, sc to the end.
Rep R2 until there is 1 st left.
Monday, January 30, 2017
Eye of the Partridge and Hairpin lace
Eye of the Partridge
This is another popular slip stitch pattern utilized for heel flaps on hand knit socks.
Odd number of stitches.
R1: (RS) - * k1, sl 1 wyib. Rep from * across, ending k 1.
R2 & 4: P
R3: k1, * k1, sl 1 wyib. Rep from * across, ending k2
Rep R 1 - 4 until you have a square or your project is finished.
You will need a hairpin lace loom.
Place the tines of the fork 1 inch apart.
Use the instructions that come with the loom to create the strips. Before removing the strip from the loom, run a strand of yarn along the tines in the loops to keep them in order and from getting lost. Count the loops. Make the same number of loops for each. Create 5 strips.
Lay strip 1 & 2 side by side, hook one loop from the left through one loop on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 3 next to 2, hook 2 loops from the left through 2 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 4 next to 3, hook 3 loops from the left through 3 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 5 next to 4, hook 5 loops from the left through 5 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Attach yarn to a corner, sc in each loop along the side, * ch across to sc in the center sc, ch across to the joining, sc in the joining, ch across to sc in the center sc. Rep from * across to the corner, sc in each loop along the side. Rep from * across. Join with sl st in top of the first sc.
Heel stitch and Broomstick lace
This slip stitch pattern is named because it is used for heel flaps on hand knit socks and is really good for hard wear.
Odd number of stitches
R1: (RS) - * k1, sl 1 wyib. Rep from * across. End k1.
Rep these 2 rows until you have a square or your project is finished.
Hook you are using for the yarn, size 17 - 35 knitting needle
Multiple of 5.
Ch the needed number of sts.
R1: holding the chain with the tail to the right, put the loop on the hook onto the knitting needle, * insert the hook in the next ch and draw up a loop, put on the needle. Rep from * across.
R2: *working under the first 5 loops, ch 1, 5 sc in the bundle of 5 loops, drop off the needle. Rep from * across.
R3: * put the loop on the hook onto the needle, insert the hook in the next sc, draw up a loop and put on the needle.
R4: Rep R2.
Rep R2 & R3 until you have a square or finish your project.
Star Rib Mesh and Tunisian Simple Stitch Reversed
Star Rib Mesh
Multiple of 4 sts + 1.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you reach your desired length.
Checkerboard Vandyke and Tunisian Purl Stitch
This looks like a checkerboard and some will say it resembles basket stitch or basket weave. It depends on what your source is. Barbara Walker is my go to off line.
Multiple of 8 sts.
Cast on the needed sts.
R1 - 4: * k 4, p 4.
R5 - 8: * p 4, k 4.
Rep these 8 rows for the pattern. If you choose to use dimes and pennies and play checkers with someone special. Flip to heads for kings.
Tunisian Purl Stitch
Like the last 2 Tunisian stitches we explored, it can be done with any number of stitches. It also uses the same base row as the first two.
R2A: * pull yarn to the front of the work, insert hook horizontally under the front vertical bar, run yarn below the hook on the front, behind the head of the hook and draw up over the top of the hook to the front. pull through the vertical bar. Rep from * across to the last st. Take yarn to the back of the work, insert the hook between the left leg and the center to pull up a loop.
R2B: ch 1, * wrap yarn around the hook, pull through 2 loops.
Rep R2A and R2B until you have a square or your project is finished.
Like the triangles, there are a myriad of ways to create squares and rectangles. For the time being, I will refer to squares only. Rectangles are squares that have been stretched. Just keep going if you need a rectangle.
The basic way to create a square is to start at the bottom or side and move to the opposite end until you have a square. The hardest part is determining when a square has been reached. Do I stretch it or not? Do I finish the pattern repeat and make it slightly too long or work to the square and cut the pattern repeat off in perhaps an awkward place?
A fourth way to work this shape is going corner to corner. This has been popular in some of the crochet groups on Facebook for a while. Some have even come up with a way of making them graphgahns or putting a picture on while working from a corner to the opposite corner. This shape can be also adapted to rectangles. This can work with mitered squares as well as other modular types of knitting and crocheting.
Corner to corner (C2C) starting top
left or bottom right
Mitered Knit squares with Join as you go pick up
for all but the first block
A fifth way is to work in pieces. Choose the motif shape you want, triangle, square, rectangle, octagon, whatever shape you think will make a beautiful shawl. The shapes are then joined with either seams that are solid or openwork.
There is one other way to create a rectangle shawl. It's as a parallelogram. This has one end point going straight out at the top and the bottom of the rectangle goes up to meet the part that goes straight out. Then, on the other end, the bottom of the shawl goes out and the top corner of the rectangle goes down and out to meet the bottom line. This is an easy wear shape and adds a bit of interest for the creator as well as the wearer.
Something about square shawls to consider is how you will be wearing it. If you will be folding it, you will lose some of the definition of the lace. Square shawls can be difficult to wear without folding. Shawls can be a blessing while traveling however. They can double as blankets if your room is too cool and you can't control the thermostat. Shawls can be easy to stash in your purse or carry bag to pull out when you get cool even if no one else is feeling the temperature. They can also work to keep the sun off you.
Bee Stitch and Tunisian Knit Stitch
In this stitch, the b in k1b is knit in the row below.
Multiples of 2
double knitting and Tunisian simple stitch
This is a style of knitting that creates a bag that is closed on the sides and the bottom. The bag may or may not be able to be used as a bag depending on the techniques used to knit.
Any number of stitches.
Cast on half the number of stitches needed for your project. For mine, I will cast on 16 stitches. Use smaller needles since the stitches will grow a bit. Use a long tail cast on.
R1: kfb across.
R2: k2, * sl 1 wyif, k1. Rep from * to the last 2 sts. End k2
Rep R2 until you have a square.
Tunisian Simple Stitch
This is also known as shepherd's knitting and Afghan Stitch, among others. It uses a long crochet hook, called a Tunisian Crochet Hook. Use a hook larger than you normally would with a regular hook. This can become very tight and feel like cardboard if you don't.
Ch the number of stitches you need for your project.
R1A: working in the back bump of the chain, in the 2nd ch from the hook, pull up a loop and retain on the hook. Continue along the chain this way.
R1B: now we work the return pass. ch 1. * wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through 2 loops. Rep from * to the end.
R2A: * insert the hook under the first vertical bar, draw up a loop and retain on the hook. Rep from * across.
R2B: ch 1, *wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through 2 loops. Rep from * to the end.
Rep R2A and R2B until there is a square or you have finished your project.
To finish: ch 1, sl st across, working under the vertical bars across.
Thursday, January 26, 2017
Today's stitches will be linen stitch and Jacob's ladder.
This is also known as fabric stitch. It's named that due to the lack of stretch vertically and horizontally. It's also the strands that show when slipping that are reminiscent of woven linen fabric.
R1: * k1, sl 1 wyif. Repeat from *, end k1
R2: p1, * p1, sl 1 wyib. Repeat from *, end p1.
Repeat these two rows until you have a square.
Multiple of 8 plus 9
Ch the number needed for a 4 inch square.
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ch 1 and turn.
R2: sc in first 4 stitches, ch9, sc in next 8 sts, ch 9, sc in next 8 sts, ch 9, sc in last 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.
R3: sc in each sc and in each ch. Ch 1 and turn.
R4: sc in first 4 sc, sk 9 sc, sc in next 8 sc, sk 9 sc, sc in next 8 sc, sk 9 sc, sc in last 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.
Repeat rows 2 - 4 until you have almost a square. Loop the loops thru loops from the beginning. Repeat for the rest of the columns.
Sc across the end, capturing the tops of the loops to lock them in. Fasten off.
I see these words a lot on the groups I'm part of on the internet. On the internet primarily, there is a lot of explaining being done. My in real life groups have a more don't ask, don't tell policy mostly.
The questions I see being asked over and over are:
1) why do you need it?
2) where did it all come from?
3) how do you afford it all?
4) where do you keep it?
5) how do you keep your spouse/other family from getting wise?
6) what is the benefit of it?
I am choosing to start with 2. Where did it all come from? This is a mixed bag of answers personally, in real life groups, and online.
The basic answers are:
3) thrift stores
4) Craigslist and other sites like it
5) auctions, eBay and real life ones
6) "inheritance" from family and friends and others who know you knit or crochet such as church members, who have stopped for one reason or another and want the yarn to go to a good home
7) special trip or vacation purchase
8) impulse purchases
10) winning lotteries of various types
And this just touches the tip of the iceberg of ways your stash can be built.
The questions of incredulity are the ones I see next most frequently. Why and where do you keep it all?
The whys are varied but can be summed up in a few main reasons. I like it. I'm storing away for lean times. I needed a couple yards to finish a project and this whole big skein was left. I saw this new to me yarn and have to try it. I'm going to sell .... and this is inventory for that.
Recently my knitting guild held a topic just about organizing and storing stash. I was one of the presenters. You can organize however it makes sense to you. Anyone who says you in your own home must do it their way either needs to be paying ALL of the bills or butt out. If you share your stash, that is different. Input from all contributors and users should be considered. Ok I'm down off the soap box.
Storing stash.... how much do you really have. This is best done when alone. Gather all the bags, skeins, odd balls tucked away, wips, ufos, hibernating projects and things needing frogged. You can now see how much you have. This can tell you what your oprions are for storage. Will a couple of plastic totes do the job? Do you need a whole room?
If you decide plastic totes are the answer for you, consider all implications. How many will you need? Am I willing to have that many stacked up and then unstack them because I need some from the bottom box? If you have a lot, consider the reclosable bags that air can be removed from. They can save space in the totes. Use smaller bags so you can see what's in each one. These can also protect from insects and flooding. It happens whether we want it or try to prevent it. Can a second hand dresser be better use of space? These can certainly be a nicer to look at option. You can find lots of ways to change them up online.
Wednesday, January 25, 2017
Horizontal Herringbone and Crocodile Tears Stitch
Multiple of 2 sts.
R1: RS - * k2tog tbl, k 1st st, slip both off. Rep from * across.
R2: P2tog, p in 1st st, slip both off.
Rep R 1&2 until you have a square
Crocodile Tears Stitch
Ch multiples of 5 + 1. You also need beads with a hole large enough to have 2 strands of yarn pulled through.