Tuesday, August 22, 2017
Friday, August 18, 2017
My crocheting was usually done to suit my choice for the hand in the fabric I was creating and I did some math to get the heights needed for garments. Most of my crochet over the years, however, has been for blankets, toys and other things where gauge didn't really matter unless I really had to have the finished size required.
I have worked many times on certain swatches to get the gauge required. Being at a community fair while working on some of this was not probably the smartest choice I made recently. The distractions didn't help me to achieve my goals but did let me gain a potential new teaching spot and meet some wonderful new women.
I also had to add 2 skeins of yarn in 2 different colors for the colorwork swatches. I added a baby yellow from craftsmart. Think baked yellow cake color when it's cut. I also added a mint green from Red Heart. Both of these keep within the color rules and proper weight.
Tuesday, August 15, 2017
Several things in this are things that apply to our knitting and crocheting.
1. Success is when you look back at your life, and more specifically your knitting and crocheting, and the memories make you smile.
2. Top 3 tips to success: Read something no one else is reading, think something no one else is thinking, do something no one else is doing. Instead of being a trend follower, YOU could be starting the trends.
3. You don't have to be a professional to be successful. Google and Apple were started by amateurs. Professionals build the Titanic. Your skills are great for what you are currently doing. Add to them as you want to do other things.
4. Stop complaining about life and your projects and start celebrating it and them. If you have done the best you can with the tools and skills at your disposal, celebrate!
5. Other cultures can teach us many things. There's various color work techniques named for their specific regions. There are lace techniques also named for their regions. There are even various animal and plant fibers that are unknown to us or that are in the realm of legend because they are hard to get for whatever reason. We need to share with others our own skills and possibly tools and materials when we visit another region. Just as the regions we visit will share with us.
6. Live the life you want to be seen in. This follows the line of thinking of being a living sermon. As an example, I want to be known as a knitter and crocheter. I, therefore, take a knitting or crochet project with me many places. I work on that thing when I wait for something to happen, long line in the grocery store? I knit on a simple something until it's my turn to unload the cart. Waiting for a train? I can get in a few stitches. When I was younger and my sons were in school, I had my kids with me as I dropped them from one thing to another throughout the week and had my project with me and for sports seasons a huge batch of healthy cookies for whatever team they were in.
7. Don't always listen accurately to people. Yes, you saw that correctly. There is a story of an old donkey. One day the farmer decided the donkey was going to die soon and he would give the inevitable a hand. The farmer pushed the tired old donkey into an unused dry well. He had a neighbor helping him to fill in the well. Shovelful by shovelful, the donkey was being covered. Naturally the old donkey was confused by this dirt. He's shake the dirt off and step up on the pile. The farmer and neighbor yelled at the donkey to quit that and stay put. But being old the donkey didn't quite catch the words and it made him mad about the dirt they kept tossing on him. More and more the dirt filled the well. More and more the donkey shook off the dirt and stepped up. Now the donkey could see daylight filling the well and hear the yelling but still couldn't quite understand the words. He thought to himself "I really have to get out of this hole, they need me. Just listen to the yelling." Suddenly he steps out of the well because there was enough dirt that the well was filled. The farmer said to the donkey "Why aren't you dead? You were on your last breath last night." The donkey said in reply "Last night I felt that no one needed me anymore and I was heartbroken. Today I fell in a hole and you and the neighbor were shouting encouragement to me and giving me more and more dirt to stand on to climb slowly to the top.
So the morals to this story are 1) Don't always listen to naysayers. If you really want to do complicated lace or color-work as a beginner, go for it but follow #2. 2) Slow and steady will get you to your desired destination. Go slow and keep trying. 3) Choose to hear encouragement even in the face of criticism. If someone says terrible things, chalk it up to they're having a bad day and don't let it bring you down. OR, find a message in it that can inspire improvement. Your stitches are wonky. Lesson learned that maybe blocking would help. Your color choice is horrible. Lesson here is that the observer doesn't like those colors but you do or the recipient does. Tough cookies on them.
Monday, August 7, 2017
So I have added 2 purple shawls of my own design, one knit and one crochet. I have added a crocodile stitch crochet shrug, also my own design. As I finish these and have the patterns written and tech edited, I will be creating a designer page for these to be published. There's also the coat I started before the church carnival. I have another sweater that might get frogged and put back in stash. There are also 4 afghans, 1 in pinks and creams that just needs the joining finished, 1 in light blues that needs joining, 1 in cotton that should be joined but might be better not joined and instead used as dishcloths and the 4th is one in the blue/purple family of colors that is in super bulky yarns and is one very large granny square. I really want the afghans finished since when they are done, they can find homes with others.
I might cry if I find more wips. This is getting ridiculous. I wish I could catch the finishing bug rather than the starting bug. Maybe I will have to put myself on a strict schedule and work to a deadline. Are there any answers to this??? I don't have them, if there are. Maybe I need to reinstitute Finishing Friday for myself.
Pictures may or may not come. I'm having trouble with my phone's camera. There's something to be said for not letting your phone fall into water.
Friday, July 28, 2017
Which master level 1 am I starting with???
Musical ching a ring as Danny Kaye would say in movies like White Christmas.
Dun du du du (imagine the musical notes since I can't figure that part out)
I have picked my yarn. I have my hook selection made. I have my stitch and written work packet downloaded and printed. I have a basket to contain this. I have the materials for creating the binder as directed almost complete. I'll be using an acrylic worsted weight yarn per directives, Lion Brand, Vanna's Choice in ice blue. This might not be the actual name, but that is the color as it appears to me. Probably I should have lined my basket (a wicker picnic basket) but not happening at this point. My hooks will be Boye in a variety of sizes that will be changed as needed to get the gauge requested. I will also be using a metal yarn needle to weave ends where needed or directed to.
Now that the church carnival is over I can fully concentrate on it. I'll post my progress as I make any without giving away the program. Always a tricky job for those who attempt it, I think. I will also be resuming as I indicated the year of stitches. I love charts, now if only there were a standard knit chart font or symbol set the way there is for crochet
Have you gone through the CGOA masters program? Let me know your thoughts. What did you learn? What did you think you knew but learned a lot about?
I'm also working ahead on my online classes. Yes I did say that a year ago. However, there was a serious illness and a death in the family of my camera man and things fell by the wayside. In the parable of what fits in the jar, I was not one of his big rocks, I'm sand. Find the story here for those who don't know it. What are your rocks? Mine would be my husband, sons, daughters in law, grandchildren, parents in law and siblings.
Wednesday, July 19, 2017
Yes I'm going to be continuing with this project. All my good intentions were derailed by a wedding, a vacation and a church carnival. The bride was beautiful once she was through the ceremony. The vacation was relaxing. The carnival was exhausting. Behind the scenes for these events has had me running in 20 directions at once.
Now I'm done with them. I'm working on the posts and hopefully swatches for each. I found the shopping bag I stored all the materials for this project in a recent clean up.
A bunch of charted stitch patterns will be coming our way. I love me a good chart. In looking at the crochet charts from around the world, all the symbols are mostly the same. But the same can't be said for the knitting charts. A post will be following to help explain the symbols.
Enjoy your summer if you are in the northern hemisphere. Enjoy your winter in the southern. Seasonal changes are coming....maybe....
Monday, July 10, 2017
Monday, June 26, 2017
Tuesday, June 20, 2017
After a bit of a hiatus, here it is.......
So far I've had a wedding, a whirlwind fabulous vacation with son1 and daughter in law, a church carnival, home repairs and remodels on the medium scale, minor catastrophes for son2 and his newly acquired family. The bride and groom are happily settling in and learning to live with each other. We saw many interesting things, bought way too much yarn from some fabulous shops, ate too many good things (with my son or daughter in law cooking, it's a given that it's going to be good), saw lots of educational or interesting things, did fun stuff, worked my posterior off for various events and finally had a well deserved rest.
And now for the stitches.....
For knitting I present the dandelion stitch.
Multiple of 6 + 3.
Repeat rows 1 - 8.
Row1. k2*(knit the next stitch wrapping the yarn 3 times around the needle,) 5 times, k1*k1
2. k2*wyif slip the next 5 sts to a cable needle purlwise dropping the extra wraps, wrap the yarn around the 5 sts on the cable needle twice, then slip the 5 sts to the right-hand needle; k1*k1
5. k5*(knit the next stitch wrapping the yarn 3 times around the needle) 5 times, k1*k4
6. k5 *wyif slip the next 5 sts to a cable needle purlwise dropping the extra wraps, wrap the yarn around the 5 sts on the cable needle twice, then slip the 5 sts to the right-hand needle; k1*, k5
As a little aside, I really like dandelion greens with hot bacon dressing. I'm not sure what dandelion wine tastes like. But would love to try.
And for the crochet stitch.......
The butterfly stitch.
Multiple of 21 plus 3
R1: dc in 4th ch from hook and next 3 ch, ch 11, sk 11 ch, dc in last 5 sts.
R2: ch 3, turn, dc in 2nd st and each dc before the ch section, ch 11, dc in last 4 dc and top of the turning ch.
R3&4: rep r2.
R5: ch 3, turn, dc in 2nd st and each dc before the ch section, ch 5, sc around all the chains of the previous rows snugly, ch 5, dc in last 4 dc and top of the turning ch.
R6-9: rep r2.
R10: rep r5.
Rep r6-10 for desired size.
Friday, June 9, 2017
A very odd title for a post on a blog about knitting and crocheting. I freely admit that. But I recently read an article about what motivates people. Specifically the motivation behind Gilligan's Island, what caused it to be, Sherwood Schwartz in college was intrigued by the politics of how people get along with each other and wondered what might happen in a confined space or on a desserted island. This sparked a thought of naked and afraid and what I could bring to the table in a situation something along those lines. Then the thoughts turned to.....if I was on a dessered island what would I want with me?
I suppose it would be futile to want a boat to get off said island. So if I could have only a foot locker full of yarns and tools, what might it be? I know right now that list would change over time.
I think if the island is tropical, I would appreciate linen, cotton, hemp in dk weight and finer.
I would want a couple of Barbara G. Walker's stitch dictionaries. I think Ann Budd's book of patterns for any size yarn would be great. I would want a complete set of circular needles and a complete set of crochet hooks. I would have to have 2 crochet stitch dictionaries of comparable quality. I would also want a comparable book of crochet patterns like Ann Budd's for knitting. I don't know if these exist. But these are what I want. With basic pattern templates and stitch dictionaries, you can usually create anything.
In another time I might do this with a different climate. I know I can come up with a boatload of ideas
Friday, June 2, 2017
But besides the fact that we were both right (angle of perception has a great deal to do with what you see and think you see), it gave me pause to consider. Am I shortchanging students in knowledge? Better still, does anyone care? I figure yes we do care. Possibly this discussion is suitable for intermediate students though,
Sock yarn is yarn that is used to knit or crochet socks. That is the base answer and while true is also untrue. Sock yarn should be slightly stretchy. It has very definite crimp in the fiber allowing for a lot of twist in the spin, thus allowing a lot of twist in the plying. Sock yarn, if they are to be worn in shoes, is almost always fingering weight or a light fingering weight. Much more and shoes won't fit over the foot and sock. But is the goal for boot socks? Then heavier weight yarn can be used. Is the goal for bed socks or house socks? Still heavier yarn can be used.
Fingering weight yarn on the other hand is any yarn that has 19 - 22 wraps per inch (how many times the yarn wraps around a ruler or pencil or any even object in an inch) and knits up at a gauge of 7 - 8 stitches per inch. It is fairly fine but not thread like. The fiber may or may not have a lot of crimp. The yarn may or may not be highly twisted. The plying will match the twist.
On the surface, they seem to be one in the same. But consider this. All the sweaters, shawls, hats, scarves, you name it don't have near the friction that a sock does inside a shoe, or even just being worn. We don't walk on sweaters or shawls or hats. This means that all that extra twist is more surface area for the yarn to wear evenly. You won't get a wear hole in the sock nearly as fast as a yarn that doesn't have all that twist. This is an important thing to consider.
The shawl that is done in fingering weight yarn will usually have a lot of drape. Fiber and gauge have a lot to do with this, but so does the amount of twist in the fiber as well as the amount of twist in the plying. The shawl done in sock yarn but the same gauge and fiber won't drape as much.
So what is your preference? Did you know there was a difference??
Thursday, May 11, 2017
May 2017 marks the 10th anniversary of Ravelry.
I know it's hard to believe. It's grown steadily from tens of members in the beginning to millions today.
Their blog post about their birthday can be found here.
Do you utilize ravelry? What are your favorite parts?
I utilize it, but definitely not to its fullest. I hunt for patterns. I might see how yarns are used by others. I check other people's projects.
I don't use the project page to my benefit or its fullest. I have not even used the stash section. I try to keep my library up to date and fail.
Saturday, May 6, 2017
2209 paxton church rd
2340 mockingbird rd
950 Hamilton St.
1001 w. Broad street
52 York Street
717-818-9691 or 717-225-0780
3519 Old Philadelphia Pike,
Kitchen Kettle Village
Intercourse, PA 17534
829 state st.
39 e. Main street
2 e. 28tg division hwy
240 s. Main street
Sunday, April 23, 2017
If someone were to ask you what is the difference between crossed and twisted stitches in knitting, would you be able to help? I ask because it came to me as I worked on a guild project called wingspan by maylin Tri'Coterie Designs. This project is from several years ago and older than that from its designing. It's a really nice shawl and I look forward to finishing it sometime soon. Because then, I can wear it.
But back to the question at hand. Let's explore this.
Cables are crossed. Anyone who has seen Aran sweaters, whether machine knit or hand knit, knows about cables. The background is one stitch pattern. There are ropes snaking around the surface that lay over each other at regular intervals. The point where they lay over each other is the cross. Cables are at least 2 stitches over at least 2 stitches. They usually use a cable needle. Some knitters are adept at crossing cables without a cable needle.
Now for the slightly harder part. What if there's only one stitch over one stitch? Is that a cable? No. But what is it? Those are called twisted stitches. They don't use a cable needle. You would drop it if you tried to use one. Twisted stitches are crossed when doing the actual knitting rather than before.
So that leaves crossed stitches. What are those? If you think of a knit stitch as a pair of pants, the top of the stitch that goes on the top of the needle is the part of the pants that goes around hips and waist. Each leg is a leg of the stitch. Cross the pant legs at the ankle and that is what a crossed knit stitch looks like. Crossed stitches are formed by a combination of where in the stitch the needle is put and the direction of the wrapping of the yarn around the needle.
But there are also knit stitch patterns called cross stitch. They are very lovely to see and fun to knit. Below is a favorite cross stitch of mine. It's a variety slip stitch knitting.
I'm late but happy earth day!
Locally, earth day is about cleaning up the streams and abandoned areas and volunteering at non profit organizations and charities. As most of us know, it all started back in the early 70s when Americans were guzzling petroleum products and just starting to be concerned with the state of our land and waterways. We've come far but there's still a lot we can do.
"How can we tie knitting and crocheting with earth day" you ask. Let's start with the easy stuff of the mantra reduce, re-use, recyle, make do or do without.
1. Use reusable shopping bags. Then we don't have to have so many of those cheap grocery bags. These are being made to disintegrate in the landfills. If they don't get used quick enough from date of manufacturing they start falling apart in the boxes and that spells trouble for shoppers. Have you had a bag split in the parking lot dropping something breakable? This is annoying and expensive. You can purchase reusable shopping bags or you can make them.
Some would have you use those plastic bags to make something more permanent and sturdier. I encourage you not to do this. Kitchen cotton such as sugar and creme peaches and cream are fabulous. Acrylic yarns can do a great job, possibly better than the cottons.
However, in the reduce, re-use and recycle vein, what about tarn? Have you heard about this? Recycle your old t-shirts. I have a bunch that have seen better days. Over the years, tiny holes open in the fabric. These shirts then make it to my ok for cleaning or other dirty activity wardrobe. But eventually even that part of the closet becomes overflowing and something must be done. So I make tarn.
Here is a quick run-through of my process.
1. Lay shirt flat on a solid surface. Smooth wrinkles.
2. With a scissor or rotary cutter (think pizza wheel for fabric) cut across shirt from under arm seam to under arm seam. Remove the neck/sleeve portion.
3. Using a yardstick, cut across the body in even and straight strips, ending 2 inches from the fold.
4. Pick up the fabric. Using scissors, cut, angling up from one cut to the very next one. Taper ends if desired. This will give you a continuous strip.
5. Stretch to cause curling as you wrap into a ball or wrap in a ball and stretch as you knit or crochet with it.
Patterns abound for shopping bag and market bags. Choose from flat to those with a more boxlike shape to string bags.
Oh and don't toss those bits not used. They are great for dirty jobs instead of buying paper towels.
2. I've talked before about frogging sweaters to get a luxury fiber that is either out of my budget or just not available to me. But, have you changed shape? Kids grown? Usually our wardrobes are centered around a few colors that mix and match. If you've shrunk, first congratulations on your weight loss. Second consider donating the clothes outgrown so others can utilize. Third, frog appropriate garments that work well together and rework into a garment that will fit your new body.
3. Make due with what you have. This is a harder one. Are some of your clothes and soft home furnishings looking i bit faded? Maybe you can't stand the dated colors but can't afford new. Or perhaps you can't see spending $$ when there's nothing wrong with the things except for the color. Here's where dye can be a huge help.
Any natural fibers can be dyed. Synthetic fibers are a mixed bag. Some will take dye, some won't. Rit dyes found in most grocery stores and craft stores are readily available. They work well with natural fibers. They even say that synthetic fibers will work with their dye. The few times I tried synthetics, i didn't have success. Light colors can go darker. Dark colors can go darker. Plant fibers can be bleached out with rit color remover. Animal fibers will be damaged by the color remover process. Synthetics have the color in the structure of the thread and is part of the processing. These can't have the color removed.
Friday, April 14, 2017
Monday, April 10, 2017
Saturday, April 1, 2017
I'm going to offer some ideas about gauge and the measurement of. Back before the turn of the last century gauge was not talked about nor was it really measured. Children learned to knit and crochet at mom or grandma's knee. These experienced Knitters and Crocheters could see at a glance if the kids were getting the proper number of stitches and take corrective steps. Nowadays most don't have that kind of almost instant access.
In today's world, we might have a friend or family member who has taught us the basics or maybe a little more. But more and more, we are learning from teachers at yarn shops and possibly big box craft stores, teachers at conventions like Stitches, or from classes purchased online or for free on YouTube. Podcasts can offer help for questions, if you know what the problem is. The impersonalness of learning has brought up all kinds of problems that weren't a big deal in times gone by. Gauge is one such thing.
The impetus for today's post about gauge is an episode on the verypink podcast. You can check out their website at verypink.com There was a bunch of gauge questions and one stood out. The question was asked about why patterns are telling us to measure gauge mid project.
Let's go over the quick list of steps to measuring gauge.
1. Cast on and knit the swatch. Note the brand, color and weight of yarn and size of needle or hook.
2. Measure in the center of the swatch the number of stitches and then of rows per 4 inches. Note these on the same place as yarn and tool info.
3. Wash and block the swatch as you will be treating the finished product. Follow the washing instructions on the yarn label.
4. Measure the same locations again for gauge. This is the magic set of numbers for determining the size to make for the intended recipient. Note these and highlight.
5. Repeat as needed to get the stitch and row gauge in the pattern after washing and blocking. Use new yarn for each swatch. Knitting, washing/blocking and ripping out can stretch the yarn after a few times.
Ok back to the question of mid project gauge measuring. In a previous post about gauge, I discussed how emotions can influence gauge, in addition to the way you hold the tool and yarn. It's been shown time and again most people tighten up muscles when stressed. Tight muscles usually means that your hands are going to hold tightly to the tools and yarn.
Now, most of us will need to put down our project from time to time. A quick drop to answer the door or grab a drink up to many days, months, years of not working on something because life can intervene in a wide variety of ways. Over time your personal gauge can change due to age or life circumstances.
There is not much chance of gauge changing while you get a drink or eat something (wash your hands to keep things clean). But gauge can change especially for new knitters and crocheters as you gain experience over a short time period. For those of us who are more experienced, it takes more time or emotional upheaval to change our gauge.
There is a special class of people who use knitting or crocheting as a stress! reliever or as a way to keep occupied during crazy times such as waiting for the birth of a child or a teen to come home who's late. Try measuring gauge after that type of event. You'll find a difference.
Now you can see why mid project gauge measuring could need to be done.
Look back at the list of steps to measuring gauge. Remember when I said to measure gauge before washing? This is the gauge the you need to match so when washing and blocking are done after finishing or wearing you get the proper gauge for the size desired.
Make sense? I hope so. Questions can be asked in the comments section below.
Tuesday, March 21, 2017
Tuesday, March 14, 2017
My Local Yarn Shop. Those words should invoke a warm wooly feeling with sure knowledge that help can be a few short miles away. Sadly not everyone can have such a rich resource near them. Even more sad, shops are closing due to online sales and poor economy. Online sales can give us access to a plethora of choices in fiber and color.
I am lucky enough to have wonderful shops to the North, South, East and West of my home within two hours or less. These, coupled with the big box stores, give me access to many fibers and colors, as well as a wide variety of price points.
Allow me to give a glimpse into the shops. Most have a selection of acrylic yarns in weights, colors and prices. There are wools again in a selection of weight, colors and prices. There are blends, wool/acrylic, cotton/acrylic, wool/cotton, cotton/linen, wool/alpaca, you name it, I can point you to a shop where it can be found.
Classes, books, magazines are available in a variety of levels of experience. The teachers are knowledgeable and sometimes nationally recognized. Class needs are just an arm's length away if something was forgotten. Help can always be found for small questions or problems, although the shop owners usually prefer that the project components were purchased at the shop.
Some of the big box craft stores also have teachers from the local area. Many of these people are wonderful help with problems, questions and choices about projects. Check your big box craft store and lys. You will be amazed at the variety found.
Monday, February 27, 2017
Thursday, February 23, 2017
Monday, February 13, 2017
Circles are the last shape I will be tackling. 5+ sides are better suited to motifs rather than whole shawls. My mind has come up with 3 ways to create a circle. One is possible on paper but not in practical knitting or crocheting and so won't be mentioned except here. Start with 3 - 5 sts and in rows keep increasing out so you create rounded edges on the "sides". Work 3 - 5 rows straight then follow the amount of increases back down to the same beginning 3 - 5 sts. In practice this doesn't work. It cups horrendously because of the rapid rate of increases/decreases. Cupping will be worse depending on the stitch used.
Method 1 Start with either a magic circle and 8 or 12 sts worked into the circle in crochet or 2 dpns and 12 sts evenly distributed. When knitting, follow Pythagorus' rule and every time you double the number of rounds, double the number of sts on the needles. An example of this is rd 1, k, rd 2 kfb around, rd 3 k, rd 4, kfb around, rd 5-7 k, rd 8, kfb, rd 16 kfb, rd 32 kfb. Keep this increasing pattern until you have the diameter you wish. Any increase can be used. YO, k1 can be used instead to add to the lace effect or to give a very definite line of demarcation. Any stitch can be worked in the solid bands between the increase rds with the exception of things that cause waves such as feather and fan pattern stitch. These don't fare well without extensive planning due to the changing stitch count every increase round.
When working with crochet, double the number of sts on rd 2, work 1 single stitch and a pair of sts all the way around on rd 3, work 2 singles and a pair all the way around on rd 4, 3 singles and a pair on rd 5 and continue in this fashion until you are large enough. Pythagorus doesn't work as well for crochet due to the less flexible nature of the fabric created. This is in my experience.
This is fabulous for adding a border and edging due to all live stitches on the edge. You will also have a really ;nice "bag" to hold your ball of yarn and needles once you get onto a large circular needle.
Method 2 Starts at the outside edge and works into the center. Follow the same pattern for increasing here except decreases will be substituted. Again be mindful of the stitch patterns you choose. The first rds will be extremely long but once you start the decreasing, they happen quicker and quicker as you go. This can work great as long as your edge is not too tight. You also don't have to worry about having an ever increasing number of live stitches to drop.
Method 3 uses motifs. Pick one major motif and a secondary smaller motif for filling in during the joining up phase. These can be very elegant but not necessarily easy to wear.
There are no pictures this time. We all know what a circle looks like and with this few methods, I didn't deem it necessary.
Go forth and knit or crochet. Have you chosen your shape? How about a stitch pattern? Many of the stitches I'm sharing here during the #yearofcrochetstitches and #yearofknitstitches can be used successfully for almost any shawl shape.
Saturday, February 11, 2017
Cat's Paw Lace and Crowns Lace
Cat's Paw Lace
Multiple of 7 sts
Row 2: K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, S1, K1, PSSO, K1, repeat across to end of row.
Row 3: Purl to end of row.
Row 4: K2tog, YO, K3, YO, S1, K1, PSSO, repeat across to the end of row
Row 5: Purl to the end of row.
Row 6: K2, YO, S1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K2 repeat across to the end of row.
With this stitch pattern we can feel like a princess.
Openwork Leaf Pattern and Leaf Stitch
Openwork Leaf Pattern
This is a close relative of the openwork diamonds from 2 days ago. Both are fabulous. This one reminds me of the leaves of the greenery sometimes included with roses one sometimes gets for Valentine's day, birthdays or Mother's day.
Multiple of 8 + 1
R1: (WS) and all other wrong side rows - P
R2: k1, * yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k1. Rep from *
R4: k1, * k1, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k2. Rep from *
R6: k1, * k2, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k3. Rep from *
R8: k2tog, * k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * ending last rep ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
R10: k2tog, * k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * ending last rep ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso
R12: k2tog, * yo k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * ending last rep ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Leaf (make 4 worsted weight or 8 sport or fingering weight)
Rd1: Working around the chain, sc in 2nd and 3rd ch, 2 hdc in next 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch, 3 dc in same ch as 3 dc, 2 hdc in next 2 ch sc in last 2 ch. Join with sl st.
Rd2: ch 4, dc, hdc, sc in first sc, 2 hdc, dc, tr in next sc, dc, 3 hdc, dc in first hdc, hdc, dc, tr, in hdc, dtr, tr, dc, hdc in dc, hdc, sc in dc, ch 4, sl st in each ch, work back to the tip following the reverse of the first side.
Join the tips of the leaves to form a "snowflake" shape.
Block: Ch 23
R1: Dc in 4th ch and each remaining ch. Ch 3, turn.
R2: Dc in 2nd st and each remaining st, dc in top of turning chain.
Rep R2 until you have a square. Make 1 or as many as needed to finish your project. Tack the leaves to the block at the outward and inward points plus the tip of the stem.
Friday, February 10, 2017
English Mesh and V stitch
Popular, Pretty, what more could we ask for?
Multiple of 6 plus 1
R1: (wrong side) and all other wrong side rows - P
R2: k1, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *
R4: k1, * yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1; rep from *
R6: k1, * k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *
R8: k2, * (k1, yo) 2x, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * to last 5 sts, end (k1, yo) 2x, k1, ssk
Rep R1 - 8 until you have a square or you have reached the desired length
V is for Valentine's Day, V is for Victory. Sometimes these are viewed as the same thing.
Multiple of 3 plus 4
Ch the desired number of sts
R1: in 5th ch from hook, dc, (ch4 counts as dc and ch 1), * sk 2 ch, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch. Rep from *
R2: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in same ch 1 sp, * in next ch1 sp, (dc, ch1, dc). Rep from *
Rep R2 until you have a square or desired length
These sound like they should be a breakfast cereal
Multiple of 4 plus 2
Popcorn: 4 sc in st, drop loop from hook, insert hook in first sc of 4sc, hook dropped loop and pull through. ch 1, pc made. Popcorns can be sc thru to tr. Number of sts can be 4 or as many as desired.
R1: sc in 2nd ch and in each remaining ch, ch 1, turn
R2: (RS) - sc in sc; * ch1, sk next sc, pc in next sc, sk next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * across, ch 1, turn.
R3: sc in first sc and in next ch 1 sp; *ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp; rep from * across, ch 1, turn
R4: sc in first sc and in next ch 1 sp, * pc in next ch 1sp, sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1; rep from * to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
R5: sc in first sc and in next ch 1 sp; * ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp; rep from * to last sc, sc in last sc; ch 1 turn.
R6: sc in first sc, ch 1, pc in ch 1 sp; * sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, pc in next ch 1 sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, sc next sc, sc in last sc; ch 1, turn.
Rep R3 - 6 for the pattern until you have a square or you have reached the desired length.
Openwork Diamonds and Diamonds Block
This is a very old lace and there are many variations. This version is common.
Multiple of 8 + 1
R1: (WS) and all other wrong side rows - P
R2: k1, * k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2; rep from *
R4: k1, * k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *
R6: k2tog, * yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
R8: k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *
R10: k1, * k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2; rep from *
R12: k1, * k2, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k3; rep from *
Rep R1-12 until you have a square or desired length
Multiple of 10 + 7
shell: (dc, ch5, dc) in specified st
R1: dc in 4th ch from hook and next 3 ch, * sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch, dc in next 5 ch; rep from * across; ch 3 (counts as dc of following row), turn.
R2: dc in next 4 dc, * ch 2, sc in 3rd ch of shell, ch 2, dc in next 5 dc; rep from * across, ch 3, turn.
R3: sk next dc; * shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp; sk next 2 dc; rep from * across to last 5 dc, sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, sk next dc, dc in turning ch; ch 4;(c0unts as dc ch 1) turn.
R4: * sc in 3rd ch of shell, ch 2, dc in next 5 dc, ch 2; rep from * to last shell, sc in 3rd ch of shell, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch; ch 3, turn.
R5: dc in next ch 1 sp and in next sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp; * sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, rep from * to last ch 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, dc in 4th and in 3rd ch of turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Rep R2 - 5 for pattern until you have a square or you reach desired length.
Antique Diamond Pattern and Diamonds in a Row
Antique Diamond Pattern
This is one of the oldest openwork diamond patterns. It uses yos and decrease on both sides of the fabric in the Spanish fashion.
Multiple of 10 plus 1.
R1: (RS) - k1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * across.
R2: p1, *p1, yo, p2tog, k3, p2tog-b, yo, p2; rep from *
R3: k1, * k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from *
R4: k1, * k2, p1, yo, p3tog, yo, p1, k3; rep from *
R5: k1, * k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3; rep from *
R6: k1, * k1, p2tog-b, yo, p3, yo, p2tog, k2; rep from *
R7: k1, * k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *
R8: p2tog, * yo, p1, k5, p1, yo, p3tog; rep from *, ending last rep p2tog instead of p3tog.
Rep R1 - R8 until you have a square or desired length.
Diamonds in a Row
Diamonds wrapped all around a ring? If this pattern is worked wide enough, then sewn together, it could make a very nice cowl.
Multiple of 6 + 1
Cluster: (cl) - keeping the last loop on each dc on hook, dc in each of next 3 dc; yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook. cl made. This is the standard cl when specific directions are not given.
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch; ch 4, (counts as dc and ch 1 of following row), turn.
R2: sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, * ch 1, sk next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st; rep from * to last 3 sts, ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc in last st; ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2 sp) turn.
R3: * cl over next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * across. end last rep with cl over next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in 3 ch of turning ch; ch 1, turn.
R4: sc in first dc, * 2 sc in ch 2 sp, sc in cl, 2 sc in ch 2 sp; sc in next dc; rep from * across, end last rep with sc in last cl, 3 sc in ch 5 sp, ch 3, turn.
R5: dc in base of ch, ch 1, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk 2 sc, dc in next sc; rep from * across, end last rep with ch 1, sk 2 sc, 2 dc in last sc, ch 3 (counts as first dc of following row), turn
R6: dc in dc; ch 2, dc in next dc, * ch 2, cl over next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from * across, end last rep with ch 2; holding back last loop of each dc, dc in last dc and in 3rd ch of turning ch (end cl made); yo and draw through 3 loops, ch 1, turn
R7: sc in end cl; * 2 sc in each ch 2 sp, sc in each dc and sc in each cl; rep from * across, end last rep with sc in last sc (sk turning ch); ch 4, turn.
Rep R2 - 7 for the pattern until you have a square or the desired length.
Little Lace Chain and Diamonds
Little Lace Chain
This is a panel of 8 sts. This can be a fabric if repeated. It will be a linear fabric.
R1 and all wrong side rows: (WS) - P. **NOTE** On R5, work k1p1 in double yo of prev row.
R2: k1, k2tog, yo, twist next 2 sts (k2tog, but do not slip off, insert right needle tip between the two and k the first st. sl both sts from needle together), yo, ssk, k1
R4: k2tog, yo, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, yo, ssk
R6: k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2.
Rep R1 - R6 until you have a square or you have desired length
With Valentines day coming up, it seems that diamonds, love and weddings are on my mind.
Multiple of 5 + 1
Petal: (dc, ch3, sl st, ch 3, dc) all in one ch or ch sp
R1: (RS) - dc in 4th ch from hook; * ch 1, sk 4 ch, work petal in next ch; rep from * to last 2 ch, sk next ch, dc in last ch; ch 3, turn.
R2: dc infirst dc; * ch 1, work petal in ch 1 sp between next 2 petals; rep from * across, end last rep with petal in last ch 1 sp, sk next dc, dc in top of turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Rep R 2 for pattern. Rep until there is a square or desired length is reached.
Final Row: sc in first dc; * ch 4, sc in ch 1 sp between petals; rep from * across, end last rep with ch 2, sk next dc, sc in top of turning ch.
Sunday, February 5, 2017
Lace Chain and Delightful Diamonds
Panel of 10 sts.
R1: (WS and all other wrong side rows) - P. ***NOTE: On row 7, work k1p1 in double yo of prev row.***
R2: k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog but do not slip from needle, insert RH needle between the sts just knitted tog and k 1st st again; then sl both from needle together; yo, ssk, k2.
R4: k1, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k1
R6: k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk, k1, yo, ssk
R8: k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2
R10: k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3
Rep R 1-10 until you have a square or desired length. This panel can be multiplied to create an allover fabric but it will be linear in nature.
Diamonds are a girl's best friend.
Multiple of 16 + 10
R1: RS - sc in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 5, sk 3 ch, sc in next ch, rep from * across, ch 5 turn.
R2: sc in first ch 5 sp, * ch 1, Vst in next sc, ch 1; (sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5) 3x, sc in next ch 5 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in last ch 5 sp, ch 5, dc in last sc, ch 1 turn
R4: *sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst, ch 1, Vst in next sc, ch 1, sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst, (ch 5, sc in next ch 5 sp) 2x, ch 5, rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst, ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2 turn.
R5:sc in first dc, * ch 5, sc in ch 2 sp of next Vst **, (ch 5, sc in next ch 5 sp) 3x, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 5, sc in turning ch loop, ch 5, turn.
R6: *sc in next ch 5 loop, ch 5, rep from * across, ending ast rep with sc in last ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 5 turn.
R7: rep R6, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in next ch 5 loop, ch 5 turn.
Rep R 2 - 7 until you have a square or desired length.
Vst is dc, ch2 dc in same st. This is different from a standard Vst.
Ribbon Stitch Cable and Lacy Mesh
Ribbon Stitch Cable
This is the "miscabled" cable. It really is a stitch.
Panel of 10 sts
R1: WS and all other wrong side rows - k2, p6, k2
R2: p2, sl 3 to cable needle and hold in back, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2
R4 & 6: p2, k6, p2
R8: p2, sl 3 to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle, p2
R10 & 12: p2, k6, p2
Rep R 1-12 until you have a square or reach desired size.
Multiple of 4 plus 2.
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each rem ch, ch 1. turn.
R2: (RS) - sc in first sc, *ch2, sk 1 sc, cl in next sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * across, ch 5 (counts as tr and ch 1 sp), turn.
R3: sc in top of first cl, *ch 5, sc in top of next cl, rep from * across, ending last rep with ch 1, tr in last sc, ch 1, turn.
R4: sc in tr, *ch 2, cl in next sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in 3rd ch of turning ch, ch 5, turn.
Rep R3 & R4 for pattern.
CL = * yo, insert hook, and draw up a loop to height of a dc, yo and draw through 2 loops; rep from * once. yo and draw through 3 loops.
Tuesday, January 31, 2017
Today's stitches will be
Mitered Knit and Mitered Crochet
This is also know as domino knitting and modular knitting.
Odd number of stitches.
Cast on twice the number of stitches needed plus 1. Mark the center st.
R1: K to one stitch before the center, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k to the end.
Rep R1 and R2 until there is 1 st.
Ch twice as many sts as needed plus 2. Mark center sc
R1: sc in 2nd and rest of the ch.
R2: Sc to 1 st in front of marked st, sc3otg, sc to the end.
Rep R2 until there is 1 st left.
Monday, January 30, 2017
Eye of the Partridge and Hairpin lace
Eye of the Partridge
This is another popular slip stitch pattern utilized for heel flaps on hand knit socks.
Odd number of stitches.
R1: (RS) - * k1, sl 1 wyib. Rep from * across, ending k 1.
R2 & 4: P
R3: k1, * k1, sl 1 wyib. Rep from * across, ending k2
Rep R 1 - 4 until you have a square or your project is finished.
You will need a hairpin lace loom.
Place the tines of the fork 1 inch apart.
Use the instructions that come with the loom to create the strips. Before removing the strip from the loom, run a strand of yarn along the tines in the loops to keep them in order and from getting lost. Count the loops. Make the same number of loops for each. Create 5 strips.
Lay strip 1 & 2 side by side, hook one loop from the left through one loop on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 3 next to 2, hook 2 loops from the left through 2 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 4 next to 3, hook 3 loops from the left through 3 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 5 next to 4, hook 5 loops from the left through 5 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Attach yarn to a corner, sc in each loop along the side, * ch across to sc in the center sc, ch across to the joining, sc in the joining, ch across to sc in the center sc. Rep from * across to the corner, sc in each loop along the side. Rep from * across. Join with sl st in top of the first sc.
Heel stitch and Broomstick lace
This slip stitch pattern is named because it is used for heel flaps on hand knit socks and is really good for hard wear.
Odd number of stitches
R1: (RS) - * k1, sl 1 wyib. Rep from * across. End k1.
Rep these 2 rows until you have a square or your project is finished.
Hook you are using for the yarn, size 17 - 35 knitting needle
Multiple of 5.
Ch the needed number of sts.
R1: holding the chain with the tail to the right, put the loop on the hook onto the knitting needle, * insert the hook in the next ch and draw up a loop, put on the needle. Rep from * across.
R2: *working under the first 5 loops, ch 1, 5 sc in the bundle of 5 loops, drop off the needle. Rep from * across.
R3: * put the loop on the hook onto the needle, insert the hook in the next sc, draw up a loop and put on the needle.
R4: Rep R2.
Rep R2 & R3 until you have a square or finish your project.