Day 23 A Year of Stitches

Today's stitches will be

Mitered Knit and Mitered Crochet

Mitered Knit

This is also know as domino knitting and modular knitting.

Odd number of stitches.

Cast on twice the number of stitches needed plus 1.  Mark the center st.

R1:  K to one stitch before the center, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k to the end.
R2: k

Rep R1 and R2 until there is 1 st.

Mitered Crochet

Ch twice as many sts as needed plus 2.  Mark center sc

R1:  sc in 2nd and rest of the ch.
R2:  Sc to 1 st in front of marked st, sc3otg, sc to the end.

Rep R2 until there is 1 st left.

Day 22 A Year of Stitches

Today's stitches will be

Eye of the Partridge and Hairpin lace

Eye of the Partridge

This is another popular slip stitch pattern utilized for heel flaps on hand knit socks.

Odd number of stitches.

R1: (RS) - * k1, sl 1 wyib.  Rep from * across, ending k 1.
R2 & 4: P
R3: k1, * k1, sl 1 wyib.  Rep from * across, ending k2

Rep  R 1 - 4 until you have a square or your project is finished.

Hairpin Lace

You will need a hairpin lace loom.

Place the tines of the fork 1 inch apart.

Use the instructions that come with the loom to create the strips.  Before removing the strip from the loom, run a strand of yarn along the tines in the loops to keep them in order and from getting lost.  Count the loops.  Make the same number of loops for each.  Create 5 strips.

Lay strip 1 & 2 side by side, hook one loop from the left through one loop on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 3 next to 2, hook 2 loops from the left through 2 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 4 next to 3, hook 3 loops from the left through 3 loops on the right and go back and forth.
Lay strip 5 next to 4, hook 5 loops from the left through 5 loops on the right and go back and forth.

Attach yarn to a corner, sc in each loop along the side, * ch across to sc in the center sc, ch across to the joining, sc in the joining, ch across to sc in the center sc.  Rep from * across to the corner, sc in each loop along the side.  Rep from * across.  Join with sl st in top of the first sc.

Day 21 A year of Stitches

Today's stitches will be

Heel stitch and Broomstick lace

Heel stitch

This slip stitch pattern is named because it is used for heel flaps on hand knit socks and is really good for hard wear.

Odd number of stitches

R1:  (RS) - * k1, sl 1 wyib.  Rep from * across.  End k1.
R2: P

Rep these 2 rows until you have a square or your project is finished.

Broomstick lace

Hook you are using for the yarn, size 17 - 35 knitting needle

Multiple of 5.

Ch the needed number of sts.

R1:  holding the chain with the tail to the right, put the loop on the hook onto the knitting needle, * insert the hook in the next ch and draw up a loop, put on the needle.  Rep from * across.
R2:  *working under the first 5 loops, ch 1, 5 sc in the bundle of 5 loops, drop off the needle.  Rep from * across.
R3:  * put the loop on the hook onto the needle, insert the hook in the next sc, draw up a loop and put on the needle.
R4:  Rep R2.

Rep R2 & R3 until you have a square or finish your project.

Day 20 A year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Star Rib Mesh and Tunisian Simple Stitch Reversed

Star Rib Mesh

Multiple of 4 sts + 1.

Row 1 (Wrong Side): purl.

Row 2: k1, *yo, sl 2 knitwise k1 p2sso, yo, k1; rep from *.

Row 3: purl.

Row 4: ssk, yo, k1, *yo, sl 2 knitwise k1 p2sso, yo k1; rep from *, end yo, k2tog

Repeat rows 1-4 until you reach your desired length.

Tunisian Simple Stitch Reversed

Again this can be done on any number of stitches and uses the same base row to get started.  With this particular stitch, you will hold the work as if to look down on the top of the hook to make it easier.

R2A:  * holding the hook in the back of the work and the yarn in the back of the work, insert the hook in the back vertical bar and pull up a loop, retain the loop.  Rep from * across to the last st.  End by inserting the hook between the left leg and the center of the ch st.

R2B:  ch 1, * wrap yarn around the hook and pull through 2 loops.

Rep R2A and R2B until you have a square or your project is finished.

Day 19 A Year of Stitches

Today's stitches will be

Checkerboard Vandyke and Tunisian Purl Stitch

Checkerboard Vandyke

This looks like a checkerboard and some will say it resembles basket stitch or basket weave.  It depends on what your source is.  Barbara Walker is my go to off line.

Multiple of 8 sts.

Cast on the needed sts.

R1 - 4:  * k 4, p 4.
R5 - 8:  * p 4, k 4.

Rep these 8 rows for the pattern.  If you choose to use dimes and pennies and play checkers with someone special.  Flip to heads for kings. 

Tunisian Purl Stitch

Like the last 2 Tunisian stitches we explored, it can be done with any number of stitches.  It also uses the same base row as the first two. 

R2A: * pull yarn to the front of the work, insert hook horizontally under the front vertical bar, run yarn below the hook on the front, behind the head of the hook and draw up over the top of the hook to the front.  pull through the vertical bar.  Rep from * across to the last st.  Take yarn to the back of the work, insert the hook between the left leg and the center to pull up a loop.
R2B: ch 1, * wrap yarn around the hook, pull through 2 loops.

Rep R2A and R2B until you have a square or your project is finished.

The many ways to make a Square/Rectangular Shawl

Sparked by the conversation with my daughter in law about triangle shawls, my mind has charged to squares, rectangles and circles.  Square shawls and by extension, literally, rectangle shawls, are one of the basic shapes.  These are the easiest to make, mainly because they usually start at one end and go to the other.  Unless you have a lot of inadvertent yarn overs or dropped stitches, you will have straight sides.  Circles will be covered separately.

Like the triangles, there are a myriad of ways to create squares and rectangles.  For the time being, I will refer to squares only.  Rectangles are squares that have been stretched.  Just keep going if you need a rectangle.

The basic way to create a square is to start at the bottom or side and move to the opposite end until you have a square.  The hardest part is determining when a square has been reached.  Do I stretch it or not?  Do I finish the pattern repeat and make it slightly too long or work to the square and cut the pattern repeat off in perhaps an awkward place?

Another way to create a square is with mitering.  Either start on the long side and work each row shorter (from the center if a square, offset if for a rectangle) until there is one stitch left.  You can also go in the opposite direction and start at the point and increase out on each row.  Follow the same idea for the increases as was used for the decreases.

A third way to create a square is to work with mitering again but instead of 1 decrease/increase point, use four.  This can be done either row by row or in the round.  A rectangle can be created using 2 mitering points.  Starting at the out side edge and putting the miter at the 1/4 and 3/4 points of the stitch count, this creates a rectangle.  If you work the math correctly, you can work this from the center point out as well.


A fourth way to work this shape is going corner to corner.  This has been popular in some of the crochet groups on Facebook for a while.  Some have even come up with a way of making them graphgahns or putting a picture on while working from a corner to the opposite corner.  This shape can be also adapted to rectangles.  This can work with mitered squares as well as other modular types of knitting and crocheting.

Corner to corner (C2C) starting top

left or bottom right

Mitered Knit squares with Join as you go pick up

for all but the first block

A fifth way is to work in pieces.  Choose the motif shape you want, triangle, square, rectangle, octagon, whatever shape you think will make a beautiful shawl.  The shapes are then joined with either seams that are solid or openwork.






There is one other way to create a rectangle shawl.  It's as a parallelogram. This has one end point going straight out at the top and the bottom of the rectangle goes up to meet the part that goes straight out.  Then, on the other end, the bottom of the shawl goes out and the top corner of the rectangle goes down and out to meet the bottom line.  This is an easy wear shape and adds a bit of interest for the creator as well as the wearer.

Something about square shawls to consider is how you will be wearing it.  If you will be folding it, you will lose some of the definition of the lace.  Square shawls can be difficult to wear without folding.  Shawls can be a blessing while traveling however.  They can double as blankets if your room is too cool and you can't control the thermostat.  Shawls can be easy to stash in your purse or carry bag to pull out when you get cool even if no one else is feeling the temperature.  They can also work to keep the sun off you.

Day 18 A Year of Stitches

Today's stitches will be

Bee Stitch and Tunisian Knit Stitch

Bee Stitch

In this stitch, the b in k1b is knit in the row below.

Multiples of 2

Row 1: Knit all stitches.

Row 2: *K1, k1b; rep from * to end.

Row 3: Knit all stitches.

Row 4: K2, *k1b, k1; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat rows 1 – 4 until you have reached your desired length.

Tunisian Knit Stitch

Any number of stitches

Ch the number of sts desired or needed for project.

R1A:  Working in the back bump of the chain, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, draw up a loop.

R1B:  ch 1, * wrap yarn around the hook, pull through 2 loops.  Rep from * to the end.

R2A: * Insert hook to the left of the front vertical bar and the right of the back vertical bar under the horizontal ch, draw up a loop.  Rep from * across.  End by inserting hook between the left leg and the center of the ch 1 to draw up a loop.

R2B:  ch  1. * wrap yarn around the hook, pull through 2 loops.  Rep from * to the end.

Rep R2A and R2B until you have a square or your project is finished.

Finishing is done by sl st across working under the vertical bar.

Day 17 A year in stitches

Today's stitches will be

double knitting and Tunisian simple stitch

Double knitting

This is a style of knitting that creates a bag that is closed on the sides and the bottom.  The bag may or may not be able to be used as a bag depending on the techniques used to knit. 

Any number of stitches.

Cast on half the number of stitches needed for your project.  For mine, I will cast on 16 stitches.  Use smaller needles since the stitches will grow a bit.  Use a long tail cast on.

R1:  kfb across.
R2:  k2, * sl 1 wyif, k1.  Rep from * to the last 2 sts.  End k2

Rep R2 until you have a square.


Tunisian Simple Stitch

This is also known as shepherd's knitting and Afghan Stitch, among others.  It uses a long crochet hook, called a Tunisian Crochet Hook.  Use a hook larger than you normally would with a regular hook.  This can become very tight and feel like cardboard if you don't.

Ch the number of stitches you need for your project.

R1A:  working in the back bump of the chain, in the 2nd ch from the hook, pull up a loop and retain on the hook.  Continue along the chain this way.
R1B:  now we work the return pass.  ch 1. * wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through 2 loops. Rep from * to the end.

R2A: * insert the hook under the first vertical bar, draw up a loop and retain on the hook.  Rep from * across.
R2B: ch 1, *wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through 2 loops.  Rep from * to the end.

Rep R2A and R2B until there is a square or you have finished your project.

To finish: ch 1, sl st across, working under the vertical bars across.

Day 16 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be linen stitch and Jacob's ladder.

Linen stitch

This is also known as fabric stitch.  It's named that due to the lack of stretch vertically and horizontally. It's also the strands that show when slipping that are reminiscent of woven linen fabric.

R1: * k1, sl 1 wyif. Repeat from *, end k1
R2: p1, * p1, sl 1 wyib. Repeat from *, end p1.

Repeat these two rows until you have a square.

Jacob's ladder

Multiple of 8 plus 9

Ch the number needed for a 4 inch square.

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across.  Ch 1 and turn.
R2: sc in first 4 stitches,  ch9, sc in next 8 sts, ch 9, sc in next 8 sts,  ch 9,  sc in last 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.
R3:  sc in each sc and in each ch. Ch 1 and turn.
R4: sc in first 4 sc, sk 9 sc, sc in next 8 sc, sk 9 sc, sc in next 8 sc, sk 9 sc, sc in last 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat rows 2 - 4 until you have almost a square. Loop the loops thru loops from the beginning.  Repeat for the rest of the columns.

Sc across the end, capturing the tops of the loops to lock them in.  Fasten off.

Stash Appreciation, Part 1

I see these words a lot on the groups I'm part of on the internet.   On the internet primarily,  there is a lot of explaining being done.  My in real life groups have a more don't ask, don't tell policy mostly.

The questions I see being asked over and over are:

1) why do you need it?
2) where did it all come from?
3) how do you afford it all?
4) where do you keep it?
5) how do you keep your spouse/other family from getting wise?
6) what is the benefit of it?

I am choosing to start with 2.  Where did it all come from?  This is a mixed bag of answers personally, in real life groups,  and online. 

The basic answers are:
1) sales
2) gifts
3) thrift stores
4) Craigslist and other sites like it
5) auctions,  eBay and real life ones
6) "inheritance" from family and friends and others who know you knit or crochet such as church members, who have stopped for one reason or another and want the yarn to go to a good home
7) special trip or vacation purchase
8) impulse purchases
9) freecycle
10) winning lotteries of various types

And this just touches the tip of the iceberg of ways your stash can be built.

The questions of incredulity are the ones I see next most frequently.  Why and where do you keep it all?

The whys are varied but can be summed up in a few main reasons.   I like it. I'm storing away for lean times. I needed a  couple yards to finish a project and this whole big skein was left. I saw this new to me yarn and have to try it.  I'm going to sell .... and this is inventory for that. 

Recently my knitting guild held a topic just about organizing and storing stash.  I was one of the presenters.  You can organize however it makes sense to you.  Anyone who says you in your own home must do it their way either needs to be paying ALL of the bills or butt out.  If you share your stash, that is different. Input from all contributors and users should be considered.  Ok I'm down off the soap box.

Storing stash.... how much do you really have.  This is best done when alone.  Gather all the bags, skeins,  odd balls tucked away,  wips, ufos, hibernating projects and things needing frogged.  You can now see how much you have.  This can tell you what your oprions are for storage.  Will a couple of plastic totes do the job?  Do you need a whole room?

If you decide plastic totes are the answer for you, consider all implications.   How many will you need?  Am I willing to have that many stacked up and then unstack them because I need some from the bottom box?  If you have a lot,  consider the reclosable bags that air can be removed from.  They can save space in the totes.  Use smaller bags so you can see what's in each one.  These can also protect from insects and flooding.   It happens whether we want it or try to prevent it.  Can a second hand dresser be better use of space?  These can certainly be a nicer to look at option.  You can find lots of ways to change them up online.

Day 15 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Horizontal Herringbone and Crocodile Tears Stitch

Horizontal Herringbone

Multiple of 2 sts.

R1:  RS - * k2tog tbl, k 1st st, slip both off.  Rep from * across.
R2:  P2tog, p in 1st st, slip both off.

Rep R 1&2 until you have a square

Crocodile Tears Stitch

Ch multiples of 5 + 1.  You also need beads with a hole large enough to have 2 strands of yarn pulled through.

Turn and, working into the back loops, dc in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 1, *sk 2 ch, 2 dc into next st*. Rep from * to * across row.

Turn, sc at base of ch. Working around back of first post (not both of the posts, just the first one), 5 dc around the same post. Your stitches will stack on top of each other. Ch 2, pull loop through a bead, ch 2.

Rotate your work to go back up the other side and to finish your scale - working around the same singular post, fp stitch from the bottom of the stitch up to the top and work in 5 dc. One scale complete.

Sc into the top of the second post (right next to the one you've been working on) to hold everything you just did in place, and then continue working across the row.

Once you complete your row of scales, you need to set up another foundation row before you begin your next set of scales: ch 1 at the end of your scale row, turn, sc into the base of the ch. Sc into the middle of the scale, 2 dc into the top ch in between scales. Continue across row.

When you reach the end of the row, ch 1, turn and work across, making scales.

Day 14 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Royal Quilting and Open Shells

Royal Quilting

This is a beautiful 2 color pattern that is novel and ingenious.  It is a firm fabric.  When carrying the strands on R 4 & 8 stay loose. 

Multiple of 6 plus 3.  Uses 2 colors.

R1: (WS) With A, k1, p1, * sl 5 wyib, p1; rep from *, end k1.
R2: With B k
R3: With B, k1, p to last st, k1.
R4: With A, k 1, sl 3 wyib, * insert needle under the loose strand of R1 and k the next st bringing st out under strand to catch strand behind st; sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 5 sts, end k next st under loose strand, sl 3 wyib, k1.
R5: With A, k1, sl 3 wyib, * p1, sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 5 sts, end p1, sl 3 wyib, k1.
R6 & 7: With B rep R 2 & 3.
R8: With A, k1, * k next st under loose strand of R5, sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, end k next st under loose strand, k1. 

Rep R 1 - 8 until you have a square.

Open Shells

Multiple of 7 plus 1.

Row 1: (Right Side): 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, *skip 2ch, work a Shell of [1dc, 1ch, 1dc, 1ch, 1dc] into next ch, skip 2ch, 1sc into next ch**, 3ch, 1sc into next ch; rep from * ending last rep at **, turn

Row 2:  7ch (count as 1tr and 3ch), *work a sc into center dc of next Shell, 3ch**, 1dc into next 3ch arch, 3ch; rep from * ending last rep at **, 1tr into last sc, skip tch, turn.

Row 3: 1ch, 1sc into 1st st, *skip next 3ch sp, Shell into sc, skip next 3ch sp**, sc into next dc; rep from * ending last rep at **, 1sc into 4th ch of tch, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have reached your desired length.

Day 13 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Cat's Eye and Offset shells

Cat's Eye

This is a Shetland lace stitch.  It uses a multiple of 4 sts.

R1: (RS) k4, * (yo) twice, k4.  Rep from *.
R2: P2, *p2tog, (p1, k1) into the double yo of prev row, p2tog; rep from *, end p2
R3: k2, yo, *k4, (yo) twice; rep from *, end k4, yo, k2.
R4: p3, *(p2tog) twice, (p1, k1) into the double yo of prev row; rep from *. End (p2tog) twice, p3.

Rep R 1-4.

Offset shells

This uses a multiple of 6 sts plus 3

R1:  2 dc in 4th ch from hook,* sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch.  Rep from * across. End with 3 dc in last ch.  Ch 1, turn.
R2:  Sc in 1st dc, *5 dc in sc, sc in 3rd dc.  Rep from * across.  ch 3 turn.
R3:  2 dc in sc, * sc in 3rd dc, 5 dc in sc.  Rep from * across.  End with 3 dc in last sc.  ch 1, turn.

Rep R 2 & 3.

Day 12 a year of stitches

Finally feeling like i have this illness  kicked.   Antibiotics can be wonderful.  Sleep is also happening.   Although the non sleep times gave me some ideas to go along with year of stitches.

Today's stitches will be fisherman's rib and shells

Fisherman's rib.

This pattern is a member of the waffle stitch family.  It makes a very  fluffy deep ribbing.  It can make a very nice allover fabric

It uses an even number of stitches.

Cast on and purl a row.

R1:  * P1, k next st in the row below; rep from *, end p2.  Rep R 1.

*****UPDATE ****** 

The fisherman's rib will spread laterally.   Cast on fewer stitches for your sample. 

*****End of update*****

Shells

This is a multiple of stitches 6 plus 3

Ch the number needed to get 4inches. Add 3 stitches.

R1: 5 dc in 7th ch from hook, *sk 5 ch, 5 dc in next ch. Rep until there are 3 ch, dc in last ch.  Ch 3, turn.

R2:  * 5 dc in 3rd dc of 5 dc cluster. Rep across.  Dc in top of turning ch.  Ch 3, turn. 

Repeat R2 until you have a square.

Sorry for a delay

I'm currently working on a doctor appointment.   I caught an upper respiratory infection and it's getting worse not better.  I'll catch up soon.

Day 11 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Parallelogram and single crochet ribbing

Parallelogram

This stitch is a variety of ribbing with very wide sections that are then offset.  This is easier than it sounds.  Choose your multiple of stitches or work within the numbers you have available.   The purls are equal to the knits.  My example will use multiple of 10.  In this example the shapes lean to the left at the top.

R1: *k5, p5.  Repeat from * across.
R2:  p1, * k5, p5. Repeat from * across.   End p4.
R3: p2, * k5, p5. Repeat from * across.  End p3.
R4: p3, * k5, p5. Repeat from * across. End p2.
R5: p4, * k5, p5. Repeat from * across. End p1.
R6: p5, * k5, p5. Repeat from * across.   End k5.

Repeat r 1- 6 for pattern.

Single crochet ribbing

Any number of stitches.

Ch the number needed plus 1.

R1:  In 2nd ch from hook and each ch, sc. Ch 1 and turn.

R2: in each sc, sc in each sc in the back loop only. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat r2 until you have a square.

This stitch has vertical stretch and a ridge running across the row.

Day 10 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Cables and post stitches

Cables tend to pull in knitting just like ribbing does, but the crosses make it permanent.   These are basic twisted rope cables.

Cast on 26 stitches.

R1 and all odd numbered rows: (wrong side) - k2, p4, k2, p6, k2, p8, k2.
R2: p2, k4, p2, k6, p2, k8, p2
R4: p2, c4b, p2, k6, p2, k8, p2
R6: p2, k4, p2, c6f, p2, k8, pw
R8: p2, c4b, p2, k6, p2, c8f, p2
R10: p2, k4, p2, k6, p2, k8, p2
R12:  p2, c4b, p2, c6f, p2, k8, p2
R14:  p2, k4, p2, k6, p2, k8, p2
R16:  p2, c4b, p2, c6f, p2, c8b, p2

Rep these 16 rows until you have a square. Bind off in pattern.

Post stitches

These add a textural element to the crochet fabric.  Post stitches can add a drawing in of the fabric like ribbing does in knitting.  Posts can be a jumping off point for other textural elements of crochet.

Ch 26.

R1: in the 4th ch from hook and each ch to the,  dc.  Ch 3 and turn.
R2: dc in 2nd dc and next 4 dc,  (fptr around next dc, dc in dc) 5x, dc to the end and in the top of the turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R3: dc in 2nd dc and next 4 dc,  (bptr around fptr,  dc in dc) 5x, dc to the end and in the top of the turning ch.   Ch the number needed 3 and turn.
Rep R 2&3 until you have almost a square. Dc in each st across.

A quick and easy way

I wish there were quick and easy ways to do lots of things.  I bet most people do.

I've been too lazy, or maybe not motivated enough,  to get up and hunt for a ruler or measuring tape. I don't have one in the shopping bag I'm using for #yearofcrochetstitches and #yearofknitstitches.   So how do i know if my squares are the right width? How do I know if they are actually square?

I know from years of gardening that I have 8" from thumb tip to pinky tip.  This is the measurement my peas grew in double rows.  Half of this is directed to me by the point of the between my index and middle finger.  Try the measurements for your hands.  Does it hold up for you?

Now, the quick and easy way to determine whether or not you have a square. Once you think it looks like a square,  to be sure, fold it corner to corner  so it forms a triangle. If the width matches the length, you have a winning square.  Once you become comfortable with your own particular gauge,  you can even start determining how many rows you have to knit or unknit.

Day 9 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Turkish stitch  and filet,  variant 2

Turkish stitch

Looks very similar to the basic fagoting.

Row 1: k1, *yo, k2tog ; rep from *to last st, k1

Repeat this row until you have reached your desired length

Filet,  variant 2

This is still a lace worked with double crochet and chain spaces,  but the chain stitch spaces are 1 chain wide.  The same picture we did yesterday will be much thinner today. 

Get the same graph paper from yesterday and draw a line down thru each row of squares you will need.  This should be the same as yesterday. Now draw your picture.

As yesterday,  the chain starts on the left and goes to the right. 

Day 8 a year of stitches

Today our stitches will be

Basic faggoting and filet crochet,  variant 1

Basic fagoting is a very basic lace.  Multiple of 2

Cast on an evern number of stitches

Row 1: k1, *yo, ssk; rep from *to last st, k1

Repeat this row until you have reached your desired length

Filet, variant 1

Filet crochet is a basic lace formed by double crochet and chain spaces.  The traditional way of doing filet was to form squares.  You can create very basic pictures in this grid lace by making some of the squares solid. 

Using a small piece of lined paper or graph paper, divide your number of chains by 3.  That is the number of boxes wide and high you have to work with.   I am choosing to use my initial. Using a very rough graph, this is close to what I'm doing.

|   | * | * |* |   |   |
| * |   |   |   | * |   |
| * |   |   |   |   |   |
|   | * | * | * | * |  |
|   |   |   |   |   | * |
| * | * | * | * | * |  |  <----- start here with the plus 5, dc in 6th ch from hook.

R1: ch number of stitches plus 5, dc in 6th ch from hook,  dc in the rest of the ch.

R2:   ch 5, dc in 3rd dc, ( ch 2, dc in 3rd ch ) 4 times, dc in last sts including the top of the turning ch.

R3:  ch 5, dc in 3rd dc,  dc in each dc, until there are 3 dc left, ch 2, dc in top of the turning ch.

Continue following the chart.  Your chart will probably be different from mine.  Each box shares a dc as you go across and has 2 chains.  When you follow your chart, start at the bottom right corner.

Day 7 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Herringbone and half double herringbone

Herringbone

This stitch is a multiple of 7 plus 1

R1: (wrong side)  - purl
R2: * k2tog,  k2, inc as follows, insert point of right hand needle from the top down through the (purled) head of the st below next st, and k; then k the st above; k2; rep from *, end k1.
R3: purl
R4: k1, *k2, inc as r2, k2, k2tog;  rep from *.

Rep R 1- 4.

Half double herringbone

Any number of stitches plus 2.

R1: hdc across. Ch 2 turn.
R2:  * draw up a loop,  pull thru 1 loop on the hook, yo, pull thru 2 loops.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have a square.

Day 6 Year of stitches

Today's stitches are

Mistake stitch rib and clusters

Mistake stitch rib.

Cast on a multiple of 4 plus 3.  If this number is one less than your regular cast on, use that number.

R1: * k2, p2. Repeat from * across the row, ending k2, p1.

Repeat this row until you have a square.  Bind off in pattern.

Clusters

This is a multiple of 2 + 3.

Chain the number of stitches you are using plus 3.

R1:. In the 5th ch from the hook, start a DC.  Finish the stitch until you have 2 loops on the hook. Start a 2nd DC and continue until there are 3 loops on the hook.  YOH and pull thru 3.  *ch​ 1.  SK a ch, start a DC and finish it until there are 2 loops on the hook, start a DC and finish it until there are 3 loops on the hook, start a DC and finish it until there are 4 loops on the hook, YOH and pull thru 4. Repeat from * across.  Ch 3 turn.

R2:  in the ch 1 space, start a DC, finish it until you have 2 loops on the hook. Start a 2nd DC and continue until there are 3 loops on the hook. YOH and pull thru 3. * Ch 1, in the next ch 1 space, start a DC and finish it until there are 2 loops on the hook, start a DC and finish it until there are 3 loops on the hook, start a DC and finish it until there are 4 loops on the hook, YOH and pull thru 4. Repeat from* across.  Dc in top of last st.

Repeat R2 until you have a square.

The many ways to make a triangular shawl

My daughter in law recently asked me how to make a triangular shawl.  She was hoping for something other than the point up to long long top edge or vice versa.  While washing dishes that night, I pondered her request.  I know that this was started because of the shawl craze that is continuing to be a real thing.  She can wear them to work to keep warm, add a flair of color, add a fashion statement, make coworkers jealous.  The methods below are all the ways I thought of while washing dishes.  There may or may not be shawls designed to match each method.  I might do that some day.

1.  Cast on or chain along the long, long long top edge that matches your wingspan or desired length and work down to the point from there.

There are many patterns on Ravelry that follow this recipe.  Search triangle and top down under the accessories / neck&torso option for fabulous patterns.  A basic pattern is to cast on a wingspan of stitches and decrease each row at the beginning and the end until you make it to a point.

2.  Cast on or chain 1 - 5 stitches at the bottom point.  Increase up from there to the very long top edge.

There are plenty of patterns on Ravelry for this type of simple shawl.  A basic recipe is to make a Grandma's dishcloth that never ends and never gets to the decreases (cast on 3, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, turn, k1, yo, k to last st, yo, k1 turn.  Repeat from turn)  Search for accessories, neck&torso, triangle, bottom up for anything beyond a garter stitch shawl.  Don't bind off tightly.

3.  Cast on or chain a few stitches at the top edge in the center.  Increase at the edge and possibly in the very center and again at the edge.  The center stitch(es) can be a type of spine.  Marlybird had been doing a knit along using this format during the time of this discussion.  Find her pattern here.

4.  Start at the bottom point and work up to the side point.  Work back and forth creating short row wedges, all points meeting at the bottom and the top having all the wide ends.

A cursory glance through Ravelry doesn't reveal any patterns using this format.  This was just a 3 page search of the many pages using accessories, neck&torso, triangle, short rows.

5. For an asymmetrical triangle, start at one side point and widen out to the bottom point.  The third point at the other end of the very long top edge is in line mostly with the point.  This could go the other way as well with the length getting the short rows rather than the height.  There is one perfect example of this type of shawl on Ravelry.  See the pattern here.  It follows the second way the short rows can be formed and has a unique self tie option.

There are a few more options available for this style.

6.  Start at the center of the top edge and make a little triangle.  Work out from there growing the sides and the point all at the same time.  From the different videos I have seen lately, this is a popular method by some designers.  Stephen West explores this option in his Metalouse and boneyard shawls as well as a few others.  This gives you something to hold onto when starting out unlike #3.

7.  Start from the outside 3 edges and work toward the center.  This can involve a few thousand stitches to start, depending on weight of yarn and needle or hook size.  This can be daunting to many people.  I suggest liberal use of stitch markers to keep the count correct and spring type clothes pins and the use of a large table to help keep the outside edge from twisting.

I can't really find a shawl done this way.  It could be the very large number of stitches that have to be started with.  However, this could be an option if you like the looks of this.

8.  Start from the middle and work out.  This will most likely create an equilateral triangle rather than a very wide top with a shallow depth.  Depending on the pattern chosen, Ravelry has many choices.  Some are a panel in the center with triangles on 3 sides.  Some are squares worked from the center out.  There are a few like the multi colored triangle wrap and madrona.

9.  In pieces.  Using either squares, rectangles, hexagons or triangles,  piece them together using any one of a variety of methods.  There's a few that use piecing as the method of construction.   Here's a pretty one using squares and a border.  Mostly I have seen squares, rectangles, trapezoids, and oddly shaped pieces to fill out the final triangle shape.  The piecing method can include seaming, picking up, JAYGo among others.

If you have any other ideas of ways to create a triangle shawl, post the idea in the comments.  Rectangle and square shawls are fairly standard as we have all probably played with blocks as children.  Circular shawls are pretty much concentric circles worked from the outside in or the inside out.  A few might be made of pieced motifs.  Do you have any other shapes for shawls?

Here are my hashtags

I'm going to use #yearofcrochetstitches and #yearofknitstitches on social media.

My goal is to post a picture each day of each block.   At the end of the month I'll put a picture of the month's squares for each.

Find me on Twitter as @wendyteaches.
Find me on Instagram as wendyteaches.
Find me on Facebook under crochet & knit with wendyteaches- mrsscubafish.

I may get a little behind now and then but I will catch up.

Day 5 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Eyelets and granny square

Eyelets

Even number of stitches in a multiple of 4 + 2 (for this I'm using 22 sts)

R1: p across.
R2: k across.
R3: *k2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * to the end and end k2.
R4: p across
R5: k across
R6: *p2, yo, p2tog. Rep from * to the end and end p2.

Rep these 6 rows until you have a square.   End with 2 rows of stockinette.

Granny square

Ch4, join with a sl st in 1st ch.
R1: ch3, 2dc in ring, ch 2, * 3 dc in ring, ch 2. Rep from * twice more. Join with a sl st in the top of the turning ch.

R2: ch 3, 2 dc in the ch 2 space,  Ch1,  * (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch 2 space, Ch1. Rep from * twice then 3 dc in ch 2 space and join in the top of the turning ch.

R3: ch 3, 2 dc in the ch 2 space,  ch 1, * 3 dc in ch 1 space, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch2, ch1. Rep from * twice more then 3 dc in ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in corner,  ch 2, joinwith a sl st in the top of the turning ch.

R4: ch 3, 2 dc in the ch 2 space,  ch 1, * 3 dc in ch 1 space, ch1 twice,  (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch 2, ch1. Rep from * twice more then 3 dc in ch1 space, ch 1 twice, 3 dc in corner,  ch 2, join with a sl st in the top of the turning ch.

If this makes a 4 inch square,  great.  Otherwise,  continue in this manner adding 3 dc, ch1 on each side in the ch1 space left for each round until you have a square of 4 inches or the size you chose.

Day 4 a year of stitches

Sorry to be a day late.  I'm a bit sick.

Today's stitches will be

American moss stitch and moss stitch

American moss stitch

Even number of stitches

R1: *k1, p1. Rep from * to the end of the row.
R2: *k1, p1. Rep from * to the end of the row.
R3: *p1, k1. Rep from * to the end of the row.
R4: *p1, k1. Rep from * to the end of the row.

Rep these 4 rows until you have a square. Bind off.

Moss stitch in crochet

You need an odd number of stitches plus 1.

R1: single crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook, chain one, skip the next chain, single crochet into the stitch after that. Chain one. Skip a st. Continue to the end of the row.  End with sc in the last st. Ch1, turn.

R2: sc in sc, * sc in ch 1 space,  ch 1, skip sc.  End with 2 sc in last 2 sts. Ch1, turn.

R3: sc in sc, * ch1,  skip sc, sc in ch 1 space.  Rep from *. Ch1,  turn.

Rep r2 and r3 until you have a square.

Day 3 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

American seed stitch and seed stitch.

Yarn is worsted weight yarn and size 7 needles or size G hook.

American seed stitch in knit.

Even number of stitches
R1: k1, p1 across
R2: p1, k1 across
Repeat these two rows until you have a square.

Odd number of stitches
K1, p1 across,  end with k1.  Repeat this last row until you have a square.

Crochet seed stitch

A multiple of 2 +1

Ch the number needed for 4 inches plus 1 more.

R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook,  dc in next ch, *sc in next ch,  dc in next. Repeat from * across.  Ch 1, turn.

R2: *sc in 1st st,  dc in 2nd st. Repeat from * across.  Ch 1, turn.

Repeat r 2 until you have a square.

Day 2 a year of stitches

Today's stitches will be

Garter stitch and Double crochet.

Again 4x4 inches is the goal using worsted weight yarn and size 7 needles or size G hook.

This is an easy day.

A year of stitches

This year, I have been seeing a hashtag called a year of stitches.   It appears to be all about embroidery.   I really like the idea.  I have an idea to corrupt it here, but with knit and crochet stitches.   It will be kind of like the popular temperature afghans that are using colors and temperature  (either high or low for the day).

This idea will start today and run through the end of the year.  I plan to make a 4x4 swatch in the stitch of the day in both knit and crochet.   I will use worsted weight yarn and size 7 needles or size G hook.

The stitches will be named and if needed directions given.  To start the year, today will be stockinette stitch and single crochet.  Cast on or chain enough for 4 inches.  Work each until you have a square.  Bind off or fasten off.

Choose your colors or use stash or whatever remnants are laying around.   Keep the fibers the same throughout.  If you're making a blanket that is to be washable,  stay with machine washable yarns.

At the end of the month, I will post a picture of the month's squares.